PRECIOUS HAIR
Cashmere & Co. - A piece of luxury from nature
Fine hair - The origin
The term "noble hair" comes from the English word "noble hairs". In the period from the 19th century to the first half of the 20th century, the fine hair market was primarily dominated by English raw material suppliers, whose textile centre was the region around Bradford.
Compared to wool, fine hair fibres have a shedding edge that is only about half as high. The properties of each fibre are unique in relation to its scale structure. In addition to the height of the scales, a distinction is also made between the shape and frequency of the scales and the fineness of the fibre. Fine hairs feel significantly smoother and finer to the touch, assuming the same fineness, and generally have a higher lustre than conventional wool.
Fine hairs are generally much more expensive than wool. They have specific properties in terms of lustre, heat retention, fineness and style as well as different tactile qualities. Pure new wool or wool from sheep is not classed as fine hair.
Precious hairs include camel, cashmere, angora, mohair, cashgora, possum, alpaca, yak and vicuña. They only account for around 0.5% of all animal hair produced worldwide and are therefore traded in very small quantities compared to virgin wool. Compared to new wool, fine hair is characterised by a much softer, flowing drape, which is associated with elegant optics, fineness and lightness. These properties make it particularly comfortable to wear.
History and origin of Kashmir
According to documents, Marco Polo discovered depictions of wild goats and humans in caves in Mongolia as early as the 13th century.
It is therefore quite conceivable that humans have been breeding goats and utilising their wonderfully warm wool since this time. This is a blessing in regions where the winter is particularly harsh. It was not until the 19th century that this valuable wool became known in Europe and was called "cashmere".
The origin of authentic cashmere wool can be found in the high plateaus of the Himalayas, in Ladakh and in Tibet. At an altitude of 4,000 metres, the Capra Hircus lives, a goat that has now been tamed and is also known as the Pashmina. The extraordinary wool that has made the term "cashmere" famous throughout the world comes from this animal, whose size lies between the domestic goat and the dwarf goat we are familiar with. In these regions, winters are almost 6 months long, with temperatures reaching beyond -40°C. In order to survive these, the animals have developed a coat with long hair and a dense undercoat.
The cashmere goat
The extreme temperature differences between the highest temperatures in summer and the lowest temperatures in winter can be up to 100°C. In winter, the thermometer can read as low as -60°C in extreme cases. Temperatures between -30 and -40°C are the norm here.
It is at these temperatures that the undercoat of the cashmere goat develops best, as it acts as protection against the cold. Another important factor for high-quality cashmere wool is the species-appropriate free-range husbandry of the animals and the associated exclusively natural diet, without the goats having to be fed. This allows the hair to develop ideally to protect against the cold. It would not be able to do this if the goat was able to build up its own protective layer of body fat through additional feeding.
Manual labour
The finest raw fibres for our cashmere yarns are still combed out by hand and not sheared. Combing is more labour-intensive than shearing, but it causes less stress for the animals and is also gentler and kinder. Every year in April, before the goats have a chance to shed, the cashmere hair is combed out with large metal combs. The combs become entangled with the "greasy cashmere", as the raw fibre is called, as it still contains dirt, vegetation residues and coarse hair. Immediately after the raw fibres are extracted, they are separated according to quality and Colour. During this sorting process, all non-fibre impurities are first removed by hand and then sorted according to fineness and length. In contrast to wool, which is measured very precisely by computer, this is still done manually by trained eyes.
Finally, the hair is sorted by Colour. The natural colours of raw cashmere fibres are white, red, brown and grey. This process is necessary in order to minimise the amount of energy and dyes required for further processing. Dark fibres are therefore reserved for darker colours, while the light fibres are reserved for medium to light colours.
Properties of cashmere
The properties of cashmere fibres make them so valuable. There is no other fibre that can claim so many superlatives. Cashmere is significantly finer than wool (cashmere 14 -16 microns/ superfine merino wool 19 microns), up to 8 times warmer and 33% lighter than wool. This means that cashmere clothing is much lighter than comparable wool clothing and warms much more intensively.
The most important factor in the quality of cashmere wool is the length and fineness of the fibres. Garments made from long, fine fibres form fewer pills and keep their shape better than inexpensive cashmere wool of inferior quality; this quality also improves with every wash.
The high price of cashmere wool can be explained by the fact that only around 100 grams of wool are produced per goat each year. This means that the wool of 2-6 goats is needed for a single Sweaters.
The art of yarn production
Yarn production is a very complex process. Transforming raw cashmere into yarn requires not only highly developed machines, but also in-depth expertise. This is the only way to ensure that the precise blend of fibres minimises pilling while maximising softness and longevity. Manufacturer of the finest cashmere yarn requires a balance of machine skill and human expertise.
Each cashmere goat has individual characteristics that are valued differently. The weather, the goat's diet and its Colour are all crucial to the texture of the hair. The strongest and softest fibres come from Mongolia and Inner Mongolia.
The softest and finest, but also quite short hair comes from the white goats of Inner Mongolia. The shortness of the hair leads to pilling in the spun yarn. These white goats from Inner Mongolia would not survive the lower temperatures that prevail in Mongolia. The Mongolian goat fibres are darker and slightly coarser, but longer and stronger, so they do not pill as much. A blend of Mongolian and Inner Mongolian goat fibres produces the world's best cashmere yarn, although only experts know how to obtain the optimum blend. And that is precisely the art of yarn production!
Cashmere two-ply-28
Cashmere two-ply-28 stands for a unique quality in which a lace yarn is twisted from two threads. The production of this yarn is reserved for a particularly exclusive circle of yarn manufacturers. Among them, the Italian cashmere professionals have a special position. They set standards for uncompromising quality. One ply" yarn corresponds to a thread length of 13,000 - 16,000 metres per kg. "Two ply" yarn, which is twisted from two threads, has a thread length of 28,000 metres per kg. That is why it is also called two ply 28,000 or 2/28.
The best cashmere quality
2-ply, 4-ply, 6-ply, ... 12-ply: what are the advantages? What does this actually mean? Cashmere items are woven with a greater or lesser number of threads. This results in the density and Weight of the garment. With the same type of weave, the more threads a piece has, the better the softness of the cashmere comes into its own, giving it a special feel and comfort.
A conventional 2-thread Sweaters is a spring or summer jumper in the classic sense. However, due to the particularly good heat exchange of cashmere, it can be worn all year round, and a cashmere sweater of the same thickness is significantly warmer than a sweater made of sheep's wool. The 2-thread Sweaters have the largest market share. This is mainly due to the fact that its price is attractive (the more threads, the higher the price).
The 4-thread Sweaters corresponds to a "standard" wool jumper in terms of density. Ideal for those who find a 2-thread sweater too thin. It is ideal as a transitional jumper that can be worn without a jacket, jacket or coat in cool, windless weather.
The 6- to 12-thread Sweaters or cardigans impress with their unrivalled softness, they are unique winter items and rarely available on the market.
What to do about pilling?
Cashmere wool forms small pills over time, but this is completely normal - a process known as "pilling". The use of a pilling razor or comb is ideal for smoothing out the wool. Loose cashmere pieces can be removed effortlessly.
If the cashmere jumper fluffs up, the gentlest solution is a pilling comb. Simply go over the Sweaters several times with this special brush and comb the loose fibres out of your favourite piece.
A pilling shaver is a little more rugged, as the protruding wool hairs are simply "shaved away" - but the result speaks for itself. However, you should be careful and only glide gently over the cashmere without pressing too hard so as not to damage the outer fabric.
The right care
Cashmere feels cosy and soft and is therefore very comfortable to wear. But to keep it that way, you need to look after it properly, of course, and there are a few things to bear in mind - you should take particular care when cleaning, drying and storing your favourite items.
Noble hair - care is a must
Cashmere is a particularly exclusive but also delicate fabric. However, with the right care, this is not a problem. You should only wash the garments if you really have to. Regular airing of the garment is often sufficient. Try to wear cashmere items only every other day and let them rest for 24 hours in between - your garment will thank you for it and you will enjoy it for longer.
Hand or machine wash - what should I bear in mind?
Washing cashmere - but the right way
The most popular method is hand washing, as this is generally the gentlest option. Simply add a little wool detergent and shampoo to a wash bowl, leave to soak gently and rinse with clear water. Make sure that the water does not exceed 30°C and avoid rubbing and rubbing vigorously, as water that is too hot can cause the garment to become matted or damage the surface.
Nowadays, most washing machines are also suitable for cashmere wool - provided they have a special wool washing programme. In this programme, the laundry is only lightly agitated, but this is usually sufficient to remove soiling. A light spin cycle at 600 revolutions per minute also shortens the drying time.
Drying and storing cashmere clothing
Depending on how you wash cashmere wool, the drying time will be longer or shorter. Recommendation: Gently squeeze out any remaining wetness by placing a soft towel around the garment. Always dry cashmere wool lying flat and not hung up, otherwise the shape of the garment will tend to warp. It is even easier in the tumble dryer. Make sure that you only use the cold air programme - strong heat causes the cashmere to shrink.
When storing cashmere clothing, do not hang it on a hanger, but fold it carefully and ideally place it on top of the pile so that the fibres are not "crushed" by other items of clothing. Another tip: cashmere does not need to be ironed. If the wool is still creased, it is recommended to go over the garment briefly at low heat and without much pressure (wool or silk setting). A cotton cloth between the iron and cashmere wool is also gentle on the fibres.
THESE CARE TIPS APPLY TO ALL FINE HAIRS.
In addition to cashmere, the precious hairs that are important for textile production are camel hair, yak, mohair, angora, alpaca and the absolute luxury variant vicuña.
The natural luxury
Fine animal hair is known colloquially as fine hair. The term "fine hair" has become established and is popularly understood to mean very fine animal hair with a particularly appealing feel and Optics.
Camel hair - soft, warm and yet never too warm
Cold nights, hot days - dromedaries and Bactrian camels, also known as camels, have to be prepared for a lot in their natural habitat. Temperatures can be below zero at night and up to 60°C during the day. The animals survive these extreme fluctuations without any problems, as their fur warms them in the cold and cools them in the heat. The individual hairs have a hollow fibre structure so that they can absorb sweat very well and release it to the outside. At the same time, air is insulated in the cold so that the skin does not freeze.
The hair used for camel hair clothing usually comes from the Bactrian camel. It has two humps and is mainly kept in Mongolia and Vests China. Dromedaries are another type of camel: they have one hump and are found in Africa and the Near East. However, their hair is coarser and curly, which is why they are less suitable for fine, soft fabrics.
How is camel hair obtained?
Baby camel hair is particularly popular. This is the particularly soft, fine hair on the chest of the young animals. At 17-19.5 microns, baby camel hair is very close to cashmere (14-21 microns). For comparison: human hair has around 35-80 microns. Not only domestic animals have a winter and a summer coat: camels also shed their fur naturally in spring. The tufts of hair that fall out can then be collected, sorted and cleaned - and no camel has to suffer. Moreover, the animals live in herds and not in factory farming and are also used as pack animals and draught animals. An adult camel loses around 5 - 7 kilos of wool during the shedding season, which is why they do not need to be shorn.
What is meant by awn and down hair?
Every year, around 1 million camels shed around 3-4 million kilos of wool, but not every hair that an animal sheds is actually usable: Before processing, the awn and down hairs must first be separated.
Awn hair is the simple, coarse and long top coat of the camel. It is more suitable for carpets and other utility items. The much finer and more valuable down hair, the camel's crimped undercoat, is sorted out by hand. Textiles are almost exclusively made from downy hair. It is easier to spin and has a longer fibre length. The colour spectrum ranges from sandy to black. Due to its rarity, softness, fineness and the complex extraction of downy hair, it is often mixed with new wool.
Camel hair cools in summer and warms in winter - it is particularly temperature-regulating. The low wool fat content makes it suitable for Allergens, and camel hair is also said to have an anti-rheumatic effect, similar to the wool of the Angora rabbit. Camel hair is not only particularly light and skin-friendly, but also very easy to care for; it is often enough to simply air the woollen product for a few hours instead of washing it.
More fine hair
Yak wool
Yak is a species of cattle native to the high-altitude steppes of Central Asia. The coat, which hangs down long in winter, looks wild and helps the animals to withstand the forces of nature: Yaks can withstand temperatures as low as -40°C in winter. In addition to the wild species, around 12.7 million domesticated yaks are kept as pets today. As the livelihood of many small farmers, the yak serves as a versatile livestock and provides not only wool but also Leather, meat and milk.
They are also used as pack animals. The hair is combed out once a year to change the winter coat. After the coarse top coat has been removed, around 300 to 500 grams of fine undercoat remains per animal. The undercoat is generally used for textile production. It has a fibre fineness of 15 to 19 micrometres (1 micrometre corresponds to 0.001 millimetres) and is directly comparable to cashmere. The natural colouring can vary from black-brown to red to white.
Alpaca
The fine hair of the humpless sheep camels native to the Andes is one of the most valuable and softest natural fibres of all. Alpaca wool is known for its particularly heat-regulating properties. The hair is hollow on the inside and can therefore store body heat better than any other quality of wool. Because it also has very little wool grease (lanolin) and therefore bacteria cannot multiply and die, alpaca wool is particularly suitable for Allergens.
One alpaca provides wool for around one Sweaters per year.
The finest alpaca wool is the so-called Baby Royal class. The fibres are particularly fine with a thickness of just 19 microns. The Baby Alpaca quality grade with a maximum of 23 microns also feels very soft and gentle on the skin.
Angora
Angora is the wool of the Angora rabbit, whereas the hair of the Angora goat is called mohair. Angora rabbit hair is one of the finest natural fibres. The Angora rabbit originally comes from Turkey - more precisely from the province of Angora near Ankara. The rabbits found their way to Germany via England, where they were first mentioned around 300 years ago. Depending on where the animals are bred, they develop a different hair structure. German breeding animals produce around 1,300 grams of wool in approx. 25 cm long hair. Angora is very soft and retains heat very well.
- Angora fibres are hollow on the inside and therefore store heat ideally, which is why they are widely used in winter clothing.
- Angora wool is said to have an anti-rheumatic effect.
Mohair
The mohair goat is one of the long-haired woollen goat breeds and originally comes from Asia. Today, however, they can be found all over the world. The goats are shorn up to twice a year. The natural colours are very light and vary between white and grey. The fibre yield is around 4 kilograms per shearing. The fibre diameter can be 20 to 40 micrometres or microns (1 micron = 0.001 millimetres). A human hair has an average fibre diameter of 75 microns. Sorting is carried out strictly according to fineness and fibre length. It is not without reason that fine mohair wool is one of the most comfortable types of wool to wear. It is characterised by its particular softness, which is due to the special nature of the hairs. This depends on the age of the animal - the younger the animal, the finer the hairs. Another practical feature of mohair wool is that it is naturally water-repellent and absorbs moisture. The fibres also ensure an incredibly pleasant body temperature.
Cashgora
The Cashgora fibre was created by crossing Australian bush goats (cashmere goats) and mohair bucks in New South Wales, Australia. Further crosses were made in New Zealand. According to other sources, there was already a cross-breeding in France in 1826. The name Cashgora has become established for this fibre. "Cash" comes from "Cashmir" and "Gora" is the final syllable of "Angora". The crossbreeding produced a matt, fine, long, firm and white fibre that can be dyed particularly well. Like the mohair goat, the goat is shorn up to twice a year. The Cashgora goat is now widespread in Turkey, as well as in Texas, South Africa and Afghanistan. The strength and length of Cashgora fibres are similar to mohair fibres, while the lustre and softness are more like cashmere, but with greater durability.
Possum
Possum is the name given to the fox possum from the Australian region. The idea of blending merino wool and possum fibres was developed by a New Zealand knitter in 1992. Merino Possum knitwear was developed as a by-product of the Possum Control Programme, making the Merino Possum blend an environmentally friendly choice. Possum is 55 per cent warmer than merino and as much as 35 per cent warmer than cashmere. The reasons for this lie in the fibre itself: Possum hair is very fine and has a thickness of just 16 to 17 microns. The fibre is also short and hollow on the inside, which makes it extremely light. In addition, the hollow space in the hair acts as a warming air cushion. Due to its fineness and lightness, possum is only available as a blend with other fibres (merino wool & silk).
Guanaco
This is an animal that belongs to the camel family and is very similar to the llama (the llama is descended from the guanaco), which is characterised by its lack of hump. Guanacos are sought after for their soft and dense fur, which grows mainly in reddish-brown colours and protects the animal from the cold winters in its homeland along the Andes (especially Patagonia). These high-quality fibres are particularly popular in the luxury segment - manufacturers obtain around 400 grams of guanaco wool per animal per year. Only the fine undercoat is referred to as guanaco wool. The coarse upper hair is not used for the manufacture of corresponding products, as it is much thicker and less pleasant on the skin. A look at the fibre thickness, which is measured in microns, shows just how fine and rare this valuable material is - the finer the hair, the softer and higher quality it is. The fineness of guanaco wool is between 10 and 20 microns.
Vikunja - Wool of the gods
As a luxury wool, vicuña shines above all due to its particularly high fineness of just 10-13 microns. Few fabrics are so pleasantly soft and cosy and Vikunja wool definitely deserves a crown in the textile industry when it comes to comfort. Knitters also praise the high degree of warmth of Vikunja wool and its low tendency to crease. The wool's Optics are also unique, as it simply shimmers in an unmistakable way. Incidentally, the fine wool is not dyed, as the fibres are relatively sensitive, so all products remain in their typical light brown colour.
No fabric is finer, softer, rarer and more pleasant on the skin. Vikunja wool is pure luxury - the wool of the gods.
Vicuña
Vikunja wool comes from the smallest camel in the world, which is native to the high Andes of South America. This rare specimen has a particularly soft, silky, shiny coat that is even finer than fine cashmere wool. It is not without reason that vicuña wool is the most expensive wool in the world. Visually, vicuñas are very similar to alpacas and, like alpacas, they actually belong to the camel family. However, they have no hump and can be found in the high Andes of Ecuador, as well as in Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile. Vicuñas feel most at home at altitudes of 3500 to 5500 metres. Although the hair on their fur is among the finest in the entire animal kingdom, it grows extremely densely. Their hair is therefore coveted and expensive - vicuñas may only be shorn every three years. Each animal produces just 150 grams of the fine undercoat. In total, there are probably just 270,000 of this rare species. Vicuñas are part of the Washington Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) - which is why trade is also subject to strict regulations.