TWEED
The first camouflage fabric
Tweed - The most British of all fabrics
Tweed achieves what seems impossible: combining robust, hard-wearing fabrics made from rather strong wool with elegant Optics. They are naturally wind and water repellent and at the same time warm and insulating. This high level of comfort makes them weatherproof for hiking, Hunting and simply all outdoor activities.
Tweed is thought to have originated in Scotland and Ireland because local farmers and farm labourers wanted to protect themselves from the cold, wet climate typical of these regions. The first tweed fabrics were traditionally woven by hand in the Outer Hebrides. The fabrics were coarse, heavy, dense and felt-like, with muted, earthy colours. Clothing made from this fabric was ideal for the strenuous farm labour. As sheep also adapted to the harsh, wet and cold climate, the wool of sheep from Scotland was particularly suitable for tweed. Their wool is correspondingly thick, robust and waterproof. The high-quality new wool and robust workmanship guarantee protection against wet and cold.
Around 1830, a merchant from London is said to have received a letter from Hawick in Scotland about "tweels". The merchant misread the handwriting and believed that it must be a trade name based on the river "Tweed", and so he offered the coveted fabrics from Scotland as "Tweed" without further ado.
However, it is more correct to say that tweed, the most British of all fabrics, is actually called "tweel" or "twill".
However, tweed only really came into fashion after Queen Victoria and her German husband Albert acquired Balmoral Castle in 1848. The castle is still the Scottish holiday home of the royal family today. At the time, everything "Scottish" was very popular with the English aristocratic families, who each wanted their own country estate in the north to extend their influence and indulge in Hunting.
Prince Albert had the so-called "Balmoral Tweed" developed, a blue-red fabric with white patches that looks grey from a distance, resembling the granite mountains of Aberdeenshire in the Balmoral area.
The fabric was originally developed for deer hunting in this area, as these camouflage colours made the game less likely to take flight.
In this way, one of the first types of "estate tweed" emerged, and gradually more and more estate owners began to create their own tweed to match the landscape of their estates. At that time, it was only allowed to be worn by the lords of the manor and their staff.
Made from pure new wool, tweed became the traditional clothing for the leisure pursuits of the British landed gentry, such as fishing, hunting and riding.
In the Victorian era (1837 to 1901), it was even common to wear tweeds for sporting activities such as golf, tennis and mountaineering.
In the course of the industrial revolution in the 19th century, hand weaving gradually became uneconomical and more and more weaving mills switched to machine looms. Only the inhabitants of the Outer Hebrides retained hand looms - and for good reason. Even then, their handmade Tweed was recognised as exceptional and valuable. Scottish wool was not only a recognised means of payment for the "landlords" at the time, but also extremely popular as a suit fabric for aristocrats and millionaires.
To this day, the high-quality Scottish Tweed, which is produced in an elaborate process, is highly valued by both hunters and lovers of traditional fashion. Even the unkempt wool is dyed in 46 basic colours. Wool from up to eight different colours is then woven into a yarn. The resulting colour gradations and mottled yarns allow connoisseurs to immediately distinguish "Harris Tweed" from other tweed fabrics. The result is a unique piece that can only come from the Scottish islands.
"Harris Tweed" is one of the few fabrics that are protected by law. The name "Harris Tweed" has been a protected designation of origin and manufacture since 1910. According to the Harris Tweed Act of 1993, the exclusive tweed fabric must be made from pure new wool and the yarn used may only be dyed on the islands of the Outer Hebrides.
Tweed
Tweed clothing is ideal for outdoor activities - it is less suitable for an office with central heating.
Manufacturer
The sheep that leave their coats for the Tweed live in the barren and uneconomical areas of the Scottish islands and highlands. To withstand the wind and weather, the animals need a thick coat - the ideal material for these rustic woollen fabrics.
The wool is dyed at the beginning of the production process. Sizeable quantities of wool are first placed in a closed container. This is where the spinning process takes place, which removes all the moisture from the fibres. Only then does the wool receive its final colouring. The individual dyed batches are shredded and then mixed to obtain the typical Tweed pattern.
In the next step, the individual wool fibres are pulled in the same direction by machines and fed through a series of rollers so that the fibres can be stretched. Another machine now produces a very loosely organised thread from the right quantity of fibres. In order for the yarn to have the strength required for weaving, it must now be spun into a strong thread. The yarn is twisted six to eight times, which gives it its high tensile strength.
Properties and care of Tweed
Tweed is a fabric that is woven almost exclusively from pure new wool yarns (i.e. no cotton or viscose yarns). Clothing made from tweed must be weatherproof and not let the rain through so quickly, thanks to the natural grease content in the new wool.
The good warmth and temperature properties are due to the weave and the air pockets in the yarn.
The high-quality, elegant outer fabric with its coarse feel not only looks elegant, but is also extremely comfortable to wear. Tweed keeps you nice and warm, is breathable and has an insulating effect - perfect for autumn and winter clothing. At the same time, Tweed is particularly robust and hard-wearing, making it ideal for hunting.
Always check the Manufacturer's care instructions first, as clothing is usually made from different materials.
Tweed is a natural product - so there are a few things to bear in mind when caring for and handling it.
Tweed is best washed by hand with a mild wool detergent and cold water to protect the fabric.
Recommendation: Tweed should be spread out on a towel and dried lying down. Never tumble dry tweed.
Tweed hardly creases and therefore does not need to be ironed. A simple hand-stretching is sufficient.
Sheep's wool products are naturally easy to care for. They have a natural self-cleaning effect, which makes them less susceptible to dirt and odours. Regular airing and brushing is normally sufficient.
Tweed: The gentleman's sporting fabric
The epitome of British country style and the attitude to life that goes with it can be summed up very well by the word tweed. Sturdy, warm, sometimes a little scratchy, but always a faithful companion.
Different tweed fabrics
British fashion is unimaginable without it: Tweed - the high-quality woollen fabric from the British Isles, which is produced in Scotland or Ireland.
Harris Tweed
The fine fabric was developed in 1846 on the island of Harris, west of Scotland, by Norman McCloud.
The only one protected by trade mark law, this tweed from the Outer Hebrides enjoys the greatest reputation worldwide. The name "Harris Tweed" has consequently been a protected designation of origin and manufacture since 1910.
Harris Tweed is one of the oldest trademarks in the world: only pure new wool that has been dyed and hand-woven in the Outer Hebrides can bear the Harris Tweed seal. On the Scottish islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra, the famous robust carded yarn fabric is made from it. Harris Tweed is like the land: rough, hard, hard-wearing. It is extremely crease-resistant, keeps you very warm and is easy to combine thanks to the multi-coloured yarns. As the material is quite bulky, it is ideal for jackets and coats.
Harris Tweed is an authentic tweed and is still hand-woven from pure new wool - without any blends.
The definition given by the Harris Tweed Authority is: "cloth woven by the people of the Outer Hebrides in their own homes". Once the wool has been dyed, the different wool colours are mixed together to spin the coloured yarns. This is done exclusively in the Outer Hebrides. Even the sheep that provide the new wool live on the islands. The wool from the robust sheep varieties is shorn in early summer, cleaned and delivered to the spinning mills. Modernity has now also found its way here, as the wool is dyed by machine before spinning. This is traditionally done using local raw materials such as plants and lichens. Weaving is still done by hand at home, as required by law. Back at the factory, the finished bale is finally inspected, washed, milled and ironed.
Only after successful inspection by the inspector of the Harris Tweed Authority does it receive the stamp with the orb as a sign of authenticity.
In Gaelic, the original language of the islanders, the fabric is called "Clo Mor" - meaning "the Size of the Cloth". In earlier centuries, farmers wove it exclusively for their own use or as a barter good for other goods. It was not until around 1840 that the Countess of Dunmore, Lady Catherine Murray, began to promote the use of Harris Tweed in the British Empire. By the 20th century, it had become an inseparable part of the British look.
Only pure new wool dyed and hand-woven in the Outer Hebrides is allowed to bear the "Harris Tweed" seal.
A special feature of the Manufacturer of "Harris Tweed" is that the wool fleece is already dyed and not the yarn as is usually the case. With around 30 different basic colours, a wide and varied colour spectrum can be created when spinning the wool. A wide variety of checks, plain colours and patterns are then woven on the old Hattersley hand looms. The average weight of 500 g per metre makes "Harris Tweed" ideal for robust jackets and coats that offer perfect protection against wind and weather in the colder seasons.
Donegal Tweed
It was named after its Northern Irish home County Donegal, where it is still woven today. Hence the name Donegal yarn, or rather Donegal Tweed. For more than a hundred years, inhabitants of this country have been breeding Cheviot sheep in this mountainous and marshy area, a special type of sheep with long, warm hair that protects them from severe cold. The very thick and warm hair of the sheep became popular not only in their homeland, but also throughout Great Britain. The industrial production of Donegal tweed developed rapidly and the tweed became very popular worldwide. Natural substances such as berries, e.g. blackberry juice, but also essences of fuchsia or gorse were used as colouring agents.
Donegal Tweed differs from similar types of Tweed in the characteristic structure of the thread. The threads are dense, coarse and similar to a braid. A special feature of the "real Donegal" are the small colour nubs, which are called "flecks" or "neps". Wool fibres in up to six different colours are spun into a yarn with one basic shade. Another four shades of colour are then worked into the yarn to create a uniform yarn with different nuances.
These wefts are particularly visible in knitwear, such as Donegal Sweaters. However, woven fabrics made from Donegal Tweed are also characterised by their subtle, vibrant colours, which give the fabrics their distinctive look.
The pepper and salt pattern is one of the particularly popular variants.
It is much more complex to manufacture and weave, and slub yarn is less suitable if you specialise in extremely fast weaving. With ultra-modern weaving machines, the yarn must "slip" through the heddles. There must be no sudden friction or varying tension in the yarn. The slubs in the Donegal yarn slow down the weaving speed and make machine production extremely difficult. Donegal yarn is designed for weaving at a high level, mostly still in "homemade" home production. This makes the finished Tweed fabrics high quality and valuable.
Traditional spinning mills such as Donegal Yarns, which was founded in 1890, use pure sheep's wool to manufacture the yarn.
With 100% soft new wool, genuine "Donegal" guarantees the highest quality, a unique structure and a subtle, vibrant colouring, which is inspired by the flora and fauna of the Irish heath landscape.
Yorkshire Tweed
The Abraham Moon & Sons factory in Yorkshire is considered the home of Yorkshire Tweed. The tweed fabric has been manufactured in the Victorian building made of dark red brick for more than 175 years. The factory is one of the oldest in Yorkshire, the largest English county in the north of the country.
Thanks to its excellent quality, Yorkshire Tweed survived the difficult 1970s for the British weaving industry. During the economic crisis, a large number of factories in the region closed. Abraham Moon did not reduce its production volume during this difficult time and also retained its site in the historic dark red brick building.
Experienced craftsmen carefully check every step of the production process. Every day, an enormous number of bales of the best wool are dyed and then mixed into different colours. The mixture of different colours creates a unique and special range of shades. The next step is to comb out the fabric. The yarns are then spun from this and finally the tweed fabric is woven.
Yorkshire Tweed impresses with its own bright and clear colours. The fabric is relatively light and yet very warm.
Lovat Tweed
The traditional weaving mill Lovat Mill is located in Hawick on the banks of the River Teviot in Scotland. Fabric production has been practised here with great dedication and passion since the 17th century. The firm tweed keeps you warm and is resistant, even to moisture. Its colour variations are typically reminiscent of the Scottish landscape. Every fabric from Lovat Mill weaving mill is sustainably produced from natural, biodegradable, pure new wool.
Lovat Tweed has a unique structure that gives it a natural elasticity, allowing the fabrics to return to their natural shape. This elasticity makes the fabric extremely crease-resistant and flexible. The wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp or clammy, an ability that guarantees good wearability in both summer and winter. It is also extremely tear-resistant; the outer skin of the wool fibre resembles a protective film, which gives the wool fabric improved robustness.
Lovat Tweed is often used for hunting clothing.
Tweed: 100% natural
The criteria for distinguishing between different types of tweed are, in addition to the place of production, the typical regional species, special breeds of sheep and their types of wool, special colours and patterns and, last but not least, the function that the fabric is intended to perform.
Different sheep breeds
Cheviot Tweed
Tweed owes its name to the breed of sheep whose rather coarse wool is used for the fabrics. Cheviot sheep were at home in Northumberland and the Borders (border between Scotland and England) and still are today.
The wool fibres are long and comparatively coarse. This makes jackets and jackets made from Cheviot wool particularly suitable for heavy and rustic jackets. Blends such as 30 % merino wool and 70 % cheviot wool are often found on the market. These fabrics are soft to the touch but are still robust and warm.
Shetland Tweed
The wool for Shetland Tweed comes from sheep from the Shetland Islands.
These fibres are amazingly fine and have a fine crimp. This makes the material wonderfully fluffy and elastic. It is correspondingly comfortable to wear. Shetland Tweed is therefore particularly suitable for light jackets, jackets and Sweaters.
Saxony Tweed
The Saxony Tweed is woven from Merino wool. The yarns are slightly shorter and the wool is soft.
A carded yarn fabric whose surface is often roughened during Equipment. This creates soft and somewhat blurred Optics.
Tweed: a fabric for outdoors
In addition to the place of production, the criteria for distinguishing between types of tweed are the typical regional species, special breeds of sheep and their types of wool, special colours and patterns and, last but not least, the function that the fabric is intended to perform.
Different functions
The fabric weight is measured in grams per metre of the 1.50 metre wide fabric.
Gamekeeper Tweed
Gamekeeper Tweed is a particularly heavy tweed, it can reach fabric weights of up to around 1000 g. This tweed is intended for increased protection of gamekeepers and hunters on particularly cold, wet and windy days.
Although this fabric is available in many colours, patterns and weaves, green and brown tones naturally predominate. The reason for this is obvious, as it is all about hunting in rural Scotland. Bright yellow colours are not suitable for Hunting.
Thornproof Tweed
Thornproof Tweed is a fabric made from a particularly strong twisted yarn and is predestined for hunting fashion due to its self-healing properties. The term "thornproof" translates roughly as thorn-proof. If the fabric is punctured and damaged by thorns, branches or sharp sticks, these "holes" disappear by themselves when the fabric is massaged a little. This is due to the many fibres, which, similar to felt, become criss-crossed again as a result of the "massaging". This means that the hunter can make his way through the undergrowth without damaging his clothing.
Sporting Tweeds
Sporting tweeds are the colouring of tweeds that have been specially developed for a particular regional landscape. The Tweed has particularly good camouflage properties, as is required for Hunting in the respective region. The art of the weavers was to create an optimal colour scheme with which the hunter in a particular environment almost blends in with the natural background. Sporting Tweeds therefore have a high camouflage effect for a very narrowly defined area. Many "estate tweeds" are such sporting tweeds.
Houndstooth Tweed
Houndstooth tweed, which translates roughly as "hound's tooth" tweed, remotely resembles the back molars of a dog. In Germany, the pattern is better known as "Vichy" or "Hahnentritt". The basis is always a twill weave. The smaller weave repeat is known as "dogtooth" and the camouflage quality of the pattern is outstanding. For this reason, this pattern is often found in light and dark brown colours or in green.
PRINCE OF WALES CHECK
The Prince Of Wales cheque is also often referred to as the "Glen cheque". The original was developed near Loch Ness in the Highlands of Scotland. The Prince of Wales Check design was woven for Edward II of England when he was Prince of Wales in the early 14th century. If there is another contrasting coloured check over a fine check pattern, it is a "Prince of Wales Check". If the additional overcheck is missing, it is referred to as a classic "Glen check", which is what Edward VIII wore when he became Prince of Wales in the early 20th century.
Estate Tweeds
Estate Tweed is independent of clan affiliation and is based on the region in which the fabric was manufactured. Estate Tweeds can be traced back to the owners of certain estates, who often chose colours and patterns that were particularly suited to the landscape so as not to be seen when Hunting. Estate tweeds became popular with landowners through Prince Albert, who invented the "Balmoral Tweed", which is coloured to match the landscape and the colour of Balmoral Castle. Originally, the wearing of such tweeds was restricted to the family and staff of the landowners, but today anyone can wear them.
Tartan Tweeds
The tartan tweed patterns always originate from a specific clan and may not be altered. Plaid fabrics that express affiliation to a particular Scottish clan through their colours and patterns.
The following applied to both tweeds:
The colours of the tweeds always had to be suitable for spotting and hunting animals and for stalking in the countryside. Colours that were fashionable but did not fit into the landscape were omitted. Colours were therefore almost exclusively muted with colour accents that reflected local flower colours, for example.