Material knowledge
Material knowledge
darts
Darts ensure the correct fit of clothing. To ensure optimal body fit, the cuts must be designed so that the garment does not exhibit unwanted wrinkles or bulges where a smooth, perfect fit is desired.
accessories
The term "accessories" comes from the French word accessoire (German: "accessory"). Accessories are decorative elements that round off and complete the overall look. They have played an important role in all fashion eras and are just as important as silhouette and color. Few accessories serve the sole purpose of decoration, such as jewelry and pins. Shoes, headwear, scarves, belts, and handbags, in particular, fulfill special functions and complete the outfit.
Acetate (CA)
The term "accessories" comes from the French word accessoire (German: "accessory"). Accessories are decorative elements that round off and complete the overall look. They have played an important role in all fashion eras and are just as important as silhouette and color. Few accessories serve the sole purpose of decoration, such as jewelry and pins. Shoes, headwear, scarves, belts, and handbags, in particular, fulfill special functions and complete the outfit.
Acrylic
Acrylic is the short form of a plastic compound called polyacrylonitrile. This is a lightweight synthetic fiber with characteristics similar to wool. Due to its high durability, heat retention, and simultaneous light and weather resistance, it has a wide range of applications. However, acrylic is considered heat-sensitive and should not be exposed to temperatures above 40°C.
Alcantara
Synthetic suede imitation made from ultra-fine fibers. Alcantara offers the same grip as fine suede, but is lighter in weight and significantly easier to care for than leather.
Allover
Whether printed in multiple colors or a single color, if the print extends across the entire surface of a fabric or garment, it is called an all-over print (from the English term "allover," meaning "uniform" or "complete"). All-over prints with small patterns, such as houndstooth or Vichy check, are particularly popular.
Alpaca (WP)
Alpaca is the very fine undercoat of alpacas, a camel species related to the llama, which is bred in South America (Peru and Chile) and lives semi-wild at altitudes between 4,000 and 5,000 meters. To cope with the climate there, with its extremely cold nights (-25°C), they are naturally endowed with a thick, soft, and very fine fleece of hair. These animals are only sheared every two years. Each shearing produces approximately 3-4 kilograms of wool. Alpaca wool is predominantly white, gray, or brown and slightly curly. The silky, shiny undercoat, which is 5 to 15 centimeters long, is finer and more valuable than the guard hair or blanket hair. The main advantages of alpaca wool are its high elasticity, its good ability to regulate heat, and its light weight. Alpaca is used in knitting and weaving, either pure or blended with other wool yarns (e.g., mohair). The hair from the first shearing, also known as "baby alpaca," is particularly valuable; it is significantly softer than the hair of the adult animal and has a silky sheen.
AMF seam
Fine, hand-crafted quilting stitches. Found primarily on the lapels and flap pockets of suits, jackets, and blazers.
Angora wool (WA)
Angora wool is the name given to the down produced by the Angora rabbit. The Angora rabbit—supplier of the fine Angora wool—is bred primarily in Europe and Asia. Although their names are similar, Angora wool differs from mohair, which comes from the Angora goat. Angora wool is known for its softness, fine fibers, and what knitters call a halo (fluffiness). It is also known for its silky texture. During the natural shedding period, the rabbit produces up to 500 grams of wool per year, which is obtained in three shearings or by combing. As long as the rabbit is kept in natural conditions, it produces very light, white wool with a hollow interior, providing exceptional warmth. Angora wool can absorb up to 60% of its weight in moisture, is soft, light, fluffy, and very elastic. Angora rabbit hair has a high insulating capacity but tends to felt. Therefore, angora wool is rarely spun on its own, but is usually blended with other fibers, preferably merino wool, alpaca, and/or synthetic fibers. This increases its durability without compromising its excellent properties.
animal print
Animal print refers to print patterns on clothing that use the fur pattern of various animals as a template. Leopard and zebra patterns are particularly popular. Snake prints are also very common. To create extravagant accents, unusual colors such as neon colors are also used for animal prints.
Ankle boots
The term ankle boot is derived from the English words "ankle" and "boots." This shoe type comes in many different styles, and is available with both flat and high heels. They fill the gap between high-top pumps and women's ankle boots.
hunting bag
A hide bag is comparable to a sleeping bag. It is used for hunting, especially at night. You slip into the hide bag, similar to a sleeping bag, if you plan to spend an extended period of time in a hide in cool temperatures. This insulates your body well against the nighttime chill and prevents you from getting cold. Some models have sleeves, so your arms don't get cold either.
Anti-felt treatment
A special treatment of wool with certain substances that results in felt-free or significantly reduced felting. This makes wool textiles machine washable.
Anti-pilling finish
Pilling refers to the formation of small, rather unsightly balls and fuzz, which is characteristic of synthetic fibers and wool. It is prevented by film-forming substances or solvents.
Antistatic equipment
To prevent electrostatic charging of textiles, their surface is treated to increase electrical conductivity.
application
Sewn-on, decorative styling elements that reflect current trends and contemporary tastes. Usually made of leather or corduroy, they are primarily attached to the pockets of trousers or jackets. Appliques in the form of sleeve patches are also often found on blazers and jackets. Appliques have a long tradition and make textiles unique.
satin weave
In contrast to plain weave, the weave points in satin weave do not touch and are evenly distributed. It is one of the three basic weaves. In satin weave (also known as atlas weave), a weft thread is alternately passed under one and over at least two warp threads. The next weft thread is passed in the same way, only on the reverse side and with at least two warp threads offset. Satin weave creates a fabric that is dense, shiny, and characterized by excellent drape. Different fabric sides are created depending on how the warp and weft threads are incorporated. Warp satin: here the warp thread system predominates on the right side of the fabric. Weft satin: here the weft threads determine the right side of the fabric. Fabrics produced in this way include satin and duchesse.
Breathable
"Breathable" refers to the ability of fabrics to transport moisture away from the body, thus preventing heat loss through wet clothing. The moisture produced by the body during movement evaporates and is released to the outside, preventing cooling. For breathability to "work," the temperature outside the clothing must be cooler than near the body; the ideal temperature difference is 15°C.
Patch pockets
They are "attached" to the garment without covering the opening. A distinction is made between welt pockets, piped pockets, flap pockets, and bellows pockets (see the corresponding letters).
Equipment
This is a collective term for all processes that increase the utility of textiles after production, changing or refining their character, surface, or appearance, e.g., sanforizing, sanding, and stonewashing. Some finishes are already applied to the yarn, e.g., superwash or total easy care.
Badges
An English term meaning "badge." In the past, the English nobility used it to mark their stationery, documents, or buildings. Later, the European nobility also adopted this marking. Today, they are often embroidered or printed patches that are particularly eye-catching and serve as decoration on clothing.
bamboo
Textiles made with bamboo fiber are lustrous, very fine and soft, and create a natural feel, similar to that of silk. The fiber also boasts excellent functional properties such as breathability, odor neutrality, minimal wrinkle resistance, and easy care. Bamboo is 100% biodegradable, and bamboo plantations contribute to climate protection through their high CO2 absorption.
Banana bag
It is similar to the French bag and refers to a slightly curved bag shape with a relatively steep side opening.
Cotton
Cotton is a natural fiber formed from the seed fibers of the subtropical cotton plant and consists of 90% cellulose. Finds dating back to the 3rd century BC prove that cotton was used to make lightweight clothing. In addition to the country of origin, purity, fineness, and a soft feel are crucial for the quality of the material. Cotton fabrics can absorb up to 65% of their own weight, but they dry more slowly than synthetic fibers. Thanks to its natural origin, cotton is also very kind to the skin and generally suitable for allergy sufferers. Cotton is tear-resistant and resistant to heat and alkalis, making it extremely durable even with intensive use and frequent washing. Disadvantages: shrinks when washed (remedy: sanforizing), has a dull feel (remedy: singeing), a matte appearance (remedy: mercerizing), tends to crease and, unlike wool, can only retain little heat.
Bulking power
Fill power is a measure for down and other filling materials that indicates the volume the filling (down, polyester, etc.) regains after compression.
Bengaline
Bengaline is a term for a type of fabric that originally comes from Bengal in Western India. The cotton blend has a ribbed weave. In India, this fabric is used for Punjabi-suit-style clothing. A long tunic is worn over tight-fitting trousers without pockets. Over time, the term has been expanded to include the characteristically tailored trousers.
Bermudas
With this style of trousers, the legs end just above the knees or are cut to fit just below the knee. Bermuda shorts have a less sporty look than shorts.
Coating
To protect and refine textiles, they can be coated. The term "coating" or "coated" is derived from the English word "coat." The coating of fabrics falls within the field of textile finishing and can serve a variety of purposes. By applying a plastic layer, the "fabric" can be made air- or water-resistant, for example. Furthermore, the abrasion resistance of heavily used clothing can be increased, thus extending its service life. Last but not least, coating textiles not only has practical advantages but also a visual or tactile effect, giving garments a special look. In the subsequent process, they are hardened in a heating channel. The coating can be applied to the front or back of the outer fabric, or to an integrated carrier material.
Complain
Silk is degummed. After this process, a loss of mass is observed in the silk. This can be fully or partially compensated for by metal salts or other chemicals.
Beuchen
Boiling the cotton under pressure and adding caustic soda to remove husk particles and accompanying substances such as waxes, pectins and sizes.
Bi-color
General term for subtle, two-tone patterned fabrics, particularly through melange or different yarn colors in warp and weft (changeant).
Bi-elastic
The ability of textiles and other materials to stretch in two different directions without losing their basic shape. This is also referred to as "longitudinally and transversely elastic fabric with high recovery."
tuck
A piping is a narrow, stitched pleat with a pressed fold. The width of a piping varies between one millimeter and one centimeter.
ticket pocket
The ticket pocket is located on the right side above the regular jacket pocket. Originally, the ticket pocket was used for tickets, such as theater or tram tickets (billet = note, ticket).
Blackwatch
Traditional Scottish pattern in blue-green color scheme.
bellows bag
A very spacious, patch pocket borrowed from uniforms. It features pleats on the sides and bottom, increasing its volume. It closes with a flap, usually with Velcro or a button. When closed, this type of pocket appears thicker at the bottom than at the top, reminiscent of a bellows.
blazer
The name blazer is derived from the French word "blason," meaning coat of arms. It was originally a men's club jacket, sporty and elegant, with a tailored fit. The classic blazer is made of dark blue worsted wool, but other colors are also used. The blazer is available single-breasted or double-breasted, with a lapel collar. In women's clothing, all single-breasted jackets with a sport coat-like cut are referred to as blazers.
blazer coat
A men's or women's blazer-style coat featuring a lapel collar, horizontal flap pockets, narrow sleeves, and a single- or double-breasted closure.
Bleached
Bleached is the English term for "bleached" and is primarily used in the production of jeans. The addition of bleaching agents gives the jeans their light and washed-out appearance. This gives the jeans their individual character.
bleaching
The purpose of bleaching is to obtain the pure white tone of the textiles, therefore the natural dyes contained in the natural fibers are removed.
Blouson
A shorter jacket featuring a comfortable fit, cuffed sleeves, and a waistband. The waistband is either elasticated or has a side-adjustable button placket.
Blue Denim / Black Denim
The terms blue denim and black denim refer to the differently dyed fabrics used to make trousers and overalls. In denim production, either blue- or black-dyed warp threads are woven into the white weft threads. Therefore, all denim types are light-colored on the inside.
Bonding
Bonding two fabrics with the help of adhesives. This creates the effect of the more expensive double-face, a "double weave" with two different sides that can differ in both material properties and color. With double-face, however, the two fabric sides are firmly woven together and not glued together, as with bonding. Bonding is primarily used for garments with a decorative interior or with a reversible function. It is a cost-effective alternative to double-face and just as visually effective.
Boucle
Bouclé (French for "loop") is a wool fabric with a bumpy surface, created by using fancy yarns with irregular, loop-like thickenings. Bouclé is often used as an outer fabric for elegant, high-quality coats and blazers. Bouclé stands for classic, timeless chic.
Bourette silk
...also called silk linen, is a fabric with a distinctive structure. After the butterflies hatch from the silkworms, the short fiber pieces of the inner and outer coverings of the cocoon, along with the silk fiber waste, are processed into bourette silk using the spun spinning process. It is characterized by its typical nubby, low-luster appearance and its odor, which varies from one harvest to the next and fades over time.
Broad-ridge twill
Very wide yarns are used here. The ridge lines are formed by at least two warp lifts and sinks. Wide ridge twills can be of equal or unequal sided design.
brocade
Brocade is a heavy, usually heavily patterned, high-quality fabric. While brocade garments were once reserved only for the nobility and the wealthy, the invention of the jacquard weaving process has largely democratized the use of brocade. However, even today, brocade production is still complex, so it is generally used only in evening wear and high-quality home textiles.
Broken Twill
The term refers to cotton fabric in a so-called broken twill weave. The fabric features interrupted ridges in alternating diagonal directions. On the upper side, broken twill is smooth with a lively, fine surface; on the underside, a herringbone-like pattern can be seen.
breast pocket
Patch or cut-in welt or piped pocket on the left side of the front of jackets and blazers.
Budapester
A men's shoe characterized by the heart-shaped perforation on the toe cap and its classic, slightly rustic design. The shoe has been manufactured in Budapest since the end of the 19th century, and the model's name derives from its place of origin. Budapester versions are also available as women's shoes, some with a block heel.
crease
The crease was first invented in the second half of the 19th century, due to an accident. During a derby, the Prince of Wales was caught in a rainstorm. His valet placed his wet trousers between the mattresses to dry. After drying, the Prince was so pleased with the perfect fit that he subsequently had all his trousers made with this sharp crease. Creases can be fixed during the trouser manufacturing process so that they remain permanent.
Non-iron equipment
The non-iron finish is a chemical treatment of cotton using synthetic resin. Due to its excellent moisture absorption and retention, cotton tends to wrinkle. This absorption process is limited by the synthetic resin treatment.
cuffed sleeves
Sleeves with sewn-on and turned-up fabric cuffs. Narrower and softer than the cuff.
pleated trousers
A trouser style with pleats inserted below the waistband. One or two pleats in the front of the trousers are characteristic, providing a comfortable fit around the hips and thighs. Both men and women wear pleated trousers.
Waistband extension
Extension of the waistband with outer fabric, refers to the waistband overhang of trousers with hook and eye for closing the waistband in order to achieve a clean waistband finish.
Waist size
Trouser measurement that measures the circumference of the waistband at waist level.
Button Fly
Classic button placket on the front of the trousers.
button-down
A sporty collar style in which the tips of the shirt collar are buttoned to the undercollar. The origin of the button-down collar is thought to lie in the world of sports: polo players are said to have simply secured the annoying flapping of the collar corners while riding with an additional button.
Caban
A style borrowed from the navy, halfway between a jacket and a short coat, made of sturdy blue wool. Other features include a wide lapel collar, a tailored cut, slant pockets at the belly or waist, and striking buttons. Originally developed as special clothing for Breton fishermen, it was only available in white at the time.
camouflage pattern
A textile pattern inspired by the military camouflage pattern used on military equipment and uniforms. Camouflage is the common English and French word for "camouflage."
Canvas
Canvas is a robust and durable cotton fabric, made in a plain or panama weave. The front and back of the fabric look the same. Canvas is primarily used for casual wear, sports jackets, trousers, and accessories such as bags and backpacks. The outer fabric can vary in stiffness and weight. Its greatest advantage is its high resilience, which it owes to the special weaving technique. Furthermore, the fabric can withstand tight tension without losing its shape. Canvas is also water-repellent because when water is absorbed, the fibers swell and the fabric closes.
Cape
Also called a pelerine or poncho. Usually a round-cut, wide, sleeveless cape with a front closure, often also a slip-on style. With or without a hood, in various lengths. Often found in traditional clothing, it is made of fulled wool or loden, and can also be used as a rain cover in waterproof materials. The design is similar to that of a coat, but instead of sleeves, a cape has only openings for openings.
Carbonization
Removal of plant contaminants from wool, such as burrs, that have been ingested by animals. The raw wool is treated with diluted sulfuric acid.
Cardigan
The name goes back to a British general named James Thomas Brudenell, 7th Earl of Cardigan, who played a key role in the Crimean War. To protect his troops from the cold during the campaigns, he equipped them with woolen cardigans. Today, the term cardigan is used for both coarse- and fine-knit casual cardigans for men and women. Cardigan is the English word for cardigan.
Cargo pants
Sporty pants for men and women with patch or sewn-in side pockets on the thigh or knee, usually made of robust cotton or linen. These pants are often used outdoors because of their particularly functional features, such as the patch pockets on the thighs and knees. Originally, cargo pants were the workwear of workers and soldiers. They could store their tools in the practical pockets.
Cargo pocket
The cargo pocket originated in uniforms. A characteristic feature of the cargo pocket is that it is usually attached to the side of the garment and finished with pleats. Cargo pockets are most commonly found on cargo pants at thigh and knee level.
Square neckline
The term "carré" comes from the French and means "square." A carré neckline is designed accordingly. The waistband across the chest is cut straight, and the straps of the top or dress can be strictly straight or fan out. Carré necklines have a formal appearance and are often used in business wear. However, formal dresses with a decidedly understated design are also often adorned with a neckline of this type.
Cashgora
A cross between cashmere and mohair goats. In terms of strength and length, the natural fiber is similar to mohair; in terms of shine, fineness, and softness, it is comparable to real cashmere, but it is significantly more durable.
Cellulose (see also: Cellulose)
Cellulose is the main component of many plant fibers and serves as a raw material for the production of textiles made from cotton, viscose, or linen (obtained from flax fibers). Yarns made from cellulose fibers or a fiber blend containing cellulose are soft and fine.
Ceramica
During the production of Ceramica, the finest clay minerals are incorporated into the fabric to reflect UV rays, preventing them from penetrating the fabric. This not only regulates temperature but also improves the fiber structure, making the fabric more durable. Ceramica also offers the advantage of being crease-resistant and easy to care for.
Chambray
Lightweight plain weave with a white warp and colored weft with a mottled look. It's used, for example, as a blouse or shirt fabric.
Changeant
The fabric exhibits a color-changing, iridescent surface depending on the incidence of light. This property is particularly evident in silk or synthetic fibers. Changeable is created when different colors are chosen for the warp and weft of a plain weave. This creates an iridescent effect.
Check
The word originates from ancient Persia, where it is "shah," meaning "king." This, in turn, is the name of the game chess, which also has an Oriental origin and whose playing field is a checkered pattern of white and black squares. Check is the English term for checkered pattern.
Chelsea boots
Originally designed by Queen Victoria's shoemaker, this short ankle boot was popular as a riding boot, especially in rural areas. The Chelsea boot's distinguishing features are the two stretch inserts on the raised shaft, which ensure a secure fit despite the lack of lacing. Originally, the Chelsea was Goodyear-welted and had a slim silhouette.
Chemical fibers
Chemical fibers are artificially produced fibers that do not occur naturally. These can include fibers made from natural raw materials such as cellulose (obtained from various woods or bamboo), rubber, or protein. However, the term also refers to materials made from artificially produced fibers, such as polyester or polyamide, which consist of synthetic polymers. The thread is created using a spinning process, in which spinning mass is forced through nozzles under pressure. Chemical fibers can be very fine and thin, but also voluminous. They have a shiny, matte, warming, cooling, and moisture-transporting texture, depending on the fiber's composition. They blend very well with each other and with natural fibers. These combinations can increase the utility value of textiles.
chenille
Here, two threads are woven together in a special way, creating the soft and supple effect with its typical velvety sheen that is characteristic of this type of fabric. Chenille can be made from natural fibers such as cotton, but also synthetic polyacrylic fibers. Chenille is primarily used for sweaters, scarves, and gloves.
Chinos
Chino trousers are lightweight summer trousers made of chino twill, a fine woven fabric with a twill weave. Twill was originally used for the uniform trousers of British and French soldiers in the 19th century and, after the Spanish-American War in 1898, also found its way into civilian clothing. Twill originates from the Chinese weaving tradition and was given the Spanish name "chino" during the Spanish-American War. To save fabric in the army's outfitting, the uniform trousers had no turn-ups. Chinos are durable, long-lasting, and versatile.
chintz
It is a cotton fabric which, through impregnation and calendering, acquires a highly shiny, dirt-resistant and water-repellent surface.
Chlorine bleach
The bleaching of cellulosic fibers using sodium hypochlorite or sodium chlorite enabled rapid, fiber-friendly bleaching and achieved a pure white color. However, from an ecological perspective, chlorine bleaching is a highly questionable process and has therefore largely been replaced by chlorine-free processes.
Chrome-free tanning
Chrome-free tanning means tanning without the addition of chromium salts, which are usually used in mineral tanning.
Coin Pocket
A coin pocket is the small fifth pocket riveted into the front right pocket of five-pocket jeans. Originally, the coin pocket was also called a watch pocket. It served as a secure storage for a pocket watch, as wristwatches were impractical for cowboys and gold prospectors and, for a long time, were considered a women's accessory.
Combi Wool Seal
Quality mark for blends of wool and other textile fibers, with a minimum virgin wool content of 60%. The exact percentage of the main fiber content and all admixtures is prescribed by law (TKG).
Cool Dyed
It means "cold-dyed" and refers to a special dyeing technique for textiles. The clothing is first sewn and then dyed. The goal is to achieve special effects reminiscent of batik. When wearing cool-dyed fashion, it should be noted that it can easily bleed.
Cool Wool
Trademark for outerwear fabrics in a light, summery texture, made from pure new wool.
CoolMax
A special polyester four-channel fiber that transports body moisture from the body to the fabric surface and dries quickly.
Cord
Corduroy is a coarse fabric with velvety longitudinal ribs. Corduroy is also called "Manchester" after the name of the place where the first corduroy trousers were produced. The fabric is typically 80 to 90% cotton. The advantages of corduroy clothing include its breathability and resistance to soiling. Corduroy is a weft velvet. The pile weft is regularly interwoven. After cutting, the typical rib structure is created. Depending on the number of ribs per 10 cm of fabric, a distinction is made between fine corduroy (more than 40 ribs), Genoa corduroy (25 to 40 ribs), and wide corduroy (more than 10 and fewer than 25 ribs).
Côtelé
Côtelé is a ribbed fabric. The ribs are created using a special weaving technique. The weft thread is placed over several warp threads. The appearance is similar to a matte corduroy, but with a firmer surface.
Cotton
Cotton is the English term for cotton.
Crespo
Italian term for "curly." The fabric is made of fine-threaded worsted wool or wool and polyester. These yarns have a very fine texture. This creates the typical dry and grainy feel of Crespo fabrics. They are particularly comfortable to wear in the warmer seasons. Another advantage of Crespo is its crease resistance.
Crinkle
Crinkle has a fashionable creased look. Crinkle fabrics are made of or with cotton, silk, or synthetic fibers. The fine creases are created by heat treatment. What's particularly pleasant is that ironing is generally not necessary.
CTX membrane
Laksen was the first hunting clothing manufacturer to develop its own membrane, which, in addition to its well-known properties of waterproof, windproof, and breathable, was also designed to be particularly quiet for hunting. This goal was indeed achieved with the development of the CTX membrane. The CTX membrane is not only very quiet, but also impresses with its performance: 20,000 mm water column/m² and 30,000 g per m²/24 h water vapor transmission are values that speak for themselves and make the CTX membrane ideal for hunting use.
Cuin / Quin
Cuin is the unit of measurement used to classify down quality. Cuin stands for cubic inches and describes a relationship between weight and volume. To measure the quality of down, it is placed in a cylinder and weighted down. The higher the quality of the down, the more it resists the weight and, due to its higher loft, the less quickly it collapses.
Culotte
Culottes originated in the 17th and 18th centuries. They were knee-length trousers worn by men, which were particularly tight-fitting after 1700 and were therefore called underpants (= culotte). They reached from the waist to just below the knee and were held together there with buttons and a knee buckle. In today's fashion, this term refers to wide, leg-hugging midi-length trousers with a loose fit at the waist, which are given a fluttering character by the flowing fabric.
Cupro
Also called copper rayon. A cellulose fiber produced from cotton waste using the copper oxide-ammonia process. Cupro items can have the shine of mulberry silk or, with a special treatment, a look like washable silk. Wearing properties and washability are comparable to viscose.
Steaming
Treating a fabric with steam without applying pressure. Result: smoothing of the fabric's appearance and reducing shrinkage. Generally, all knitted fabrics are steamed.
Dégradé
A uniform color gradient within a single item, from light to dark, or from different colors. This effect can be achieved by dyeing or by knitting different colored yarns.
Degumming
Removing the dye from raw silk. The resulting weight loss can be compensated for by subsequently weighting the silk.
Stretch waistband trousers
Pants with a comfortable waistband. The so-called comfort waistband is created by the use of elastic materials and the waistband's processing.
Decatizing
Steam treatment of goods to restore their natural moisture. It also reduces the shine obtained during pressing.
denim
The term denim is derived from the French "Serge de Nîmes" (fabric from Nîmes) and refers to a particularly durable fabric originally used for workwear. As early as the 17th century, the small textile mill town of Nîmes, after which the popular cotton fabric was named, was known for its high-quality fabrics. Denim is the classic among denim fabrics and is woven particularly tightly. Characteristic of denim are the indigo-dyed warp threads and the untreated, white weft threads. The weight of denim is measured in ounces.
German leather
German leather is a very robust satin weave made of cotton. This very heavy fabric is woven with strong warp yarns and a high density of weft yarns, with up to 400 threads per inch (over 15 per mm). It has a fine and dense surface, which, unlike English leather (moleskin), remains smooth and is not roughened on one side. It is the basis for workwear subject to high wear and tear and is traditionally used in guild clothing. New German leather is often very stiff. It gradually acquires its final fit with wear.
Digital printing
The desired pattern or design is transferred directly from the computer to the printing machine, meaning there are no limits to the design of the pattern.
Dip dyeing
A type of dyeing in which the textile material to be dyed is only partially immersed in the dyeing liquid. The rest of the fabric retains its original color, creating a color contrast. Multiple, gradual immersions create a color gradient. This can also be created using different colors or shades. The term is derived from the English "dip" (= to immerse).
Docksider / boat shoe
In 1895, passionate sailor and inventor Paul Sperry invented the world's first boat shoe. Today, the Docksider is considered a classic and is worn not only by passionate sailors but also as a regular casual shoe. Boat shoes are typically made in the style of a moccasin. A typical feature of this shoe type is the leather strap running around the shaft, which can be used to adjust the fit and width of the shoe. Some models are also equipped with padding above the leather strap running around the shaft. This makes the sailing shoe more comfortable and also prevents it from slipping.
Donegal
A sporty fabric named after its homeland in northwest Ireland, predominantly plain weave, with a light warp and dark weft, and a tweed-like character and vibrant freshness. Donegal was originally a handwoven woven wool with interspersed "nubs."
Dorlastan®
Bayer AG's brand name for a elastane fiber; it is spun with other materials (natural or synthetic fibers). The fabric (e.g., cotton) gains elasticity, is less prone to wrinkling, and provides greater freedom of movement and comfort.
Double Dyed
A double-dyeing process for denim or cotton fabrics. The material is dyed throughout and then overdyed again on the top side, providing intense color and high colorfastness.
Double Face
Double-face fabric is a fabric with "two faces" that can be processed and worn on both sides, meaning it displays different colors and patterns or fabric qualities on both sides. Textiles made from this fabric can be turned inside out with appropriate processing. Because two layers of fabric are bonded together, the fabric is often somewhat heavier. Wool fabrics, but silk and synthetic fibers are also commonly used for double-face fabrics.
Duffle coat
A duffle coat is a sporty short coat. In Anglo-American parlance, it's also called a Montgomery or toggle coat. Its characteristic features include a hood, toggle buttons, and large patch pockets. Striking decorative seams and leather trim, combined with the outer material of fulled wool or loden, give the coat its distinctively sporty, slightly austere character.
Easy Care
Fabrics with this finish are easy to iron and clean. The fabric doesn't wrinkle easily and generally pills very little.
Single bed
The fabric is produced on a needle bed and has two different-looking sides; one side shows only knit stitches, the other only purl stitches. Shirt and sweatshirt items are also referred to as single jersey.
insert
Fabrics that are applied to the inside of clothing to ensure shape retention and, if necessary, stability.
single-breasted
A jacket with a single row of buttons, fastened with one, two, or three buttons. Depending on the desired style, flap pockets or patch pockets are used. The lapels can be either peaked or notched.
Protein fiber
General term for all fibers of animal origin, e.g. wool, silk.
elastane
Spandex is a highly elastic synthetic fiber that is spun with other materials (natural or chemical fibers) and was developed by the chemical company DuPont. Spandex has been in use since 1959, although back then it was still known as Fibre K. Spandex is made from polyethylene glycol and polyurethane. This creates a rubber-like fiber that is very stretchy and extremely strong. Spandex is extremely tear-resistant, permanently shape-stable, and lightweight. It is used to manufacture comfortable, well-fitting clothing such as underwear and sportswear. When added in proportion, spandex creates a stretch effect in trousers, for example. The garments retain their shape and allow greater freedom of movement and thus more comfort.
De-basting
The use of raw silk yarns gives woven and knitted fabrics a hard and brittle appearance. Boiling the yarn in a weak soap solution removes the silk glue contained in the yarn, loosening the bond.
Enzyme washed
Enzymes are increasingly being used in textile processing to achieve a fashionable, striking look. For example, cellulase is used to deliberately create small tears in cotton fibers. Enzymes have the advantage over hydrogen peroxide in that their use can significantly save water. Compared to using pumice stones to create a worn look, the use of enzymes is also more time-saving and less labor-intensive.
Complicate
The weight loss caused during degumming can be compensated by adding metal salts or other chemicals.
fan fold
One or more box pleats that are placed on top of each other and spring up from a point in a fan shape.
Fade out
Fade-out is a special effect on outer fabrics dyed with pigments. The fabric is washed out before processing. This creates the popular used look. Washing out can create multiple shades of a color or even original color gradients—for example, from light to dark.
Threadiness
Indicates the number of individual threads with which the knitwear is knitted.
Fairtrade
Economics, ecology, and social issues are the three pillars of Fairtrade standards. All producers and traders must adhere to these standards—only then can their products be awarded the Fairtrade seal.
Fake fur
Fake fur means "false fur" and refers to artificially produced fur that imitates the original in shape and color.
pleated bag
A patch pocket with pleats or box pleats. The pocket is often closed with a flap.
Color fastness
Resistance of dyes and prints to the effects of manufacturing and use. Manufacturing fastness includes, for example, acid and alkali fastness; use fastness includes rubbing, water, washing, light, weather, seawater, ironing, or solvent fastness.
Dyeing
A liquid dye solution is applied to the textile to be dyed using textile additives such as salts, alkalis, and acids. The dye is permanently bonded to the textile through the application of heat and a suitable dwell time.
Fiber blends
A very common blend is that of natural fibers with synthetic fibers. Fiber blends are intended to eliminate negative properties, achieve special effects, and improve care properties, performance, and durability. For example, cotton is blended with modal to combine the absorbency of the natural fiber with the high stretchability of the synthetic fiber.
Fine gabbrodine
Fabric that is finely diagonally ribbed.
Fineness (machine fineness)
Gauge designation of a knitting or warp-knitting machine, which indicates how many needles are in one inch (English measurement = 25.4 mm).
strength
Number of rows of stitches per 10 cm. Important indicator for maintaining consistent quality in flat knitting.
Field jacket
A field jacket is a garment of the soldier's uniform and served as the model for this faithful replica, made of strong poplin or gabardine, usually in the olive green tones of the original.
Fil-a-Fil
French for "thread upon thread." A small, carpet-like pattern created by alternating light and dark warp and weft threads. Used for suits and costumes.
felt
Felt is a textile fabric whose structure is created by felting sheep's wool and various animal hairs under the influence of pressure and moist heat. The felting of finished fabrics is called fulling. This technique is somewhat newer than weaving. The advantages of felt include its temperature resistance and flame retardancy. It is also heat-insulating, moisture-repellent, and sound-absorbing. Felt is often used to make hats, slippers, boots, and jackets.
Felt-free finish
The surface of wool fibers is modified in such a way that no or only minimal felting of the fabric occurs. By chemically removing the scales or covering the edges of the scales with plastic, the scales are prevented from becoming tangled.
Fineliner shirt
Very finely striped shirt. The stripes are created by two to four colorful yarns in the warp.
finish
The final step in textile finishing to achieve the desired appearance and feel. The finish gives the fabric special properties, such as changing the surface structure through sanding, rubbing, or roughening.
Herringbone
The term "herringbone" (also "fishbone") refers to a stepped weave with a contrasting pointed twill weave, reminiscent of multiple fishbones placed side by side. Herringbone weave can be made from various materials and yarns, namely linen, polyester, or wool. Combinations of these materials are also possible. The robust and strong fabrics are comfortable to wear.
Five Pocket
The term is mostly used for athletic pants and classic jeans without pleats and means that the pants have five pockets. Two pockets are located on the back, two more pockets on the front, and a small additional pocket is riveted onto the right front pocket on five-pocket-style pants. This small pocket is also called a coin pocket or watch pocket. The original jeans were designed as five-pocket pants.
Flat ridge twill
Fabric in a derived twill weave, characterized by a flat burr, < 45 degrees. Burr-forming weft floats create the flat burr twill. Used for coat and jacket fabrics.
flax
Flax is one of the oldest cultivated plants. It is particularly robust, so environmentally harmful pesticides are often not needed during cultivation. The natural fiber linen is obtained from the mostly pale yellow "stem bast." Linen is durable and has a refined sheen. In fashion—especially in natural fashion—linen is often used today to make blouses, shirts, dresses, and suits.
Flat knitting (machine)
Typically a two-bed machine for producing knitwear in various gauges and with complex patterning options. Flat knitting is also a common generic term for sweaters and knitted jackets.
Flame yarn
Flame yarn is a fancy yarn. The yarn's characteristic cross-sectional structure is created by deliberate thickening. On the surface are short and long, reinforced thread sections that resemble the shape of a flame. These sections can often be in different colors. Flame yarn is produced on a fancy twisting machine or on a roving card by adding roving scraps or fleece scraps to the base material. The flame effect is evident in the irregular and elongated thickenings in the yarn. Depending on the desired effect, the spacing, thickness, and length of the thickenings can be influenced using various techniques.
flannel
Flannel is a fabric with a plain or twill weave that is brushed on one or both sides. Traditionally, flannel is made of wool, but viscose, microfiber, or cotton are also often used. Flannel is not only warm; one of its best qualities is that it is very easy to care for and crease-resistant. These properties are achieved by brushing (in the case of cotton) or fulling (in the case of wool) on one or both sides. Flannel is used not only in the manufacture of high-quality suits, but also for durable workwear. The exact name depends on the material, e.g., worsted or carded flannel.
Flat
English for "flat." Flat weave, made of cotton. Used as an alternative to denim. Gabardine, poplin, canvas, and twill are examples.
Flat front trousers
English for "flat front." A flat-cut stomach and hip area, with no added width created by pleats.
Flatlock seam
Sewing fabric using a flatlock seam is a technique particularly well-suited for stretchy fabrics such as jersey. Flatlock seams are often found on T-shirts. The underside is characterized by thread crossings (like an overlock seam). The top side features either two parallel topstitching seams or thread crossings. Flatlock seams are usually sewn with a coverlock sewing machine, but can also be created with any standard overlock machine. With the latter, the cut edges are no longer visible thanks to a special folding technique. Pulling the sewn fabric pieces apart creates the characteristic flat seam – also with thread crossings on the bottom, and with individual, adjacent stitches on the top.
fleece
Fleece fabrics are lightweight, voluminous, breathable, and easy-care knits with a velvety, soft, and warming fiber pile, usually made of polyester or polyamide, which are characterized by their pleasant wearing comfort. They are a good alternative to heavy wool fabrics because, unlike wool, they are lightweight and water-repellent. Fleece also has insulating properties, making it a good protection against the cold. Due to these properties, fleece is a preferred material for outdoor clothing. Other advantages: It is wrinkle-free, machine-washable, and exceptionally soft and cozy against the skin. It is available in various qualities based on its density.
Flower
Protruding fiber ends in pile fabrics such as velvet or corduroy. A distinctive feature is the visible grain of pile fabrics. This must be taken into account during cutting and further processing.
Floral patterns/motifs
The term "flora" refers to the world of plants. This also applies to the design of the patterns and motifs; flowers, grasses, tendrils, and leaves are all design elements.
wing bag
The slanted opening of the wing pocket runs from the waistband to the side seam and is used for slim-fit business trousers, chinos, or Marlene trousers. The simple opening is considered particularly comfortable.
French bag
The French pocket is a more elegant pocket style, primarily used on trousers. It allows for comfortable and easier access to the side pockets. The opening usually runs straight from the waistband to the side seam. The pocket ends well next to the belt loop. The pocket position ranges from vertical to a 45° angle. Piping or welts are usually used to reinforce the opening. A variation of the French pocket is the so-called banana pocket, which features a curved end.
terry cloth
Fabric with an uneven surface. The fabric is also characterized by its crinkly appearance and grainy feel. This term is often mistakenly used for terry cloth.
Full Brogue
A classic men's shoe with a vamp cut, characterized by lyre perforation. The semi-brogue is somewhat simpler in design.
functional underwear
Clothing in direct contact with the body, whose function is to transport moisture away from the body to prevent the feeling of wetness and cold. For example, sports and thermal underwear.
Foot width
Refers to the width of the trouser leg, measured at the leg end (trouser hem).
gabardine
Gabardine is a dense fabric made of combed wool (worsted fabric) with distinctive "cross-grains." Fine gabardine is characterized by a finer surface quality due to its closely spaced burrs. The inside is treated to make it smooth and skin-friendly.
Galon
Decorative stripes, usually made of silk. On both outer sides of tuxedo or tailcoat trousers, the decoration enhances the garment.
Garment Dye / Ppt
Ppt stands for "pronto per tinta" and means "ready to dye." Garment dye refers to the dyeing process after a textile has been manufactured. Initially produced in raw white, the textiles are dyed completely—including labels and pocket lining, for example, in the case of trousers. The color is then washed out, which allows the material to adapt favorably to the washing process and prevent significant shrinkage after purchase.
Garment Wash
Garment washing refers to the washing of finished garments. First, it removes dirt and dye residues that accrued during the manufacturing process. Typically, it also achieves desired effects for the individual garment.
Yarn-dyed
In yarn-dyed products, the yarn is dyed before it is processed, whereas in conventional manufacturing, the finished product is dyed first. Yarn-dyed textiles can be recognized by the fact that they look the same from both sides. But there's more to the effect than just an optical one: Yarn dyeing makes the garment particularly colorfast and has lasting color intensity.
set
Decorative collars, jabots, ruffles on dresses and blouses, ribbons, feathers, flowers or other decorations fall under the term.
Yarn count (Nm)
Nm stands for "metric number" and indicates the yarn count. The yarn count indicates how many meters of yarn weigh 1 g. The higher the number, the finer the yarn. Example: Nm 15 = 15 m weigh 1 g.
Gauge
Gauge designation for knitting and warp-knitting machines; indicates how many stitches are distributed over 1.5 inches (38.1 mm). The higher the gauge number, the finer the knitwear (see also "stitch").
Mountain loden
It has a rustic character and is made from coarser wool from the Alpine region. It is often used to make coats and sturdy jackets.
Bonded
Term for the property of fabrics created by "bonding" or "laminating." In this process, outer and lining fabrics, or just outer fabrics, are joined together in multiple layers (e.g., by gluing).
Geelong
The finest Australian Merino wool, named after the Australian city of Geelong. The wool from sheep that are no more than seven months old is called Geelong wool. If this wool was obtained during the guaranteed first shearing of the lambs, it is called Super Geelong. Properties of Geelong wool: very soft and fluffy, high color brilliance, reduced (see also "pilling"), high shape stability, and durability due to particularly long-staple (= long) fibers.
frock coat
A double-breasted, knee-length, tailored jacket for men. The frock coat originated around 1800 from the Rococo justaucorps, whose construction dates back to the doublets of the 17th century. Its typical feature is the attached skirt (skirt connected to the waist). Made of dark cloth, the frock coat is now combined with narrow trousers and is also popular in women's fashion. Today, a frock coat is also called a figure-hugging, tailored, long jacket, also called an overjacket or overcoat. Less commonly, the terms long jacket or long jacket are also used.
Boiled Wool
Boiled wool means "cooked wool." Fabrics made from boiled wool are particularly suitable for outdoor clothing. Through a natural process, these fabrics become water-repellent and can withstand even drizzle without becoming soggy. Boiled wool fabrics have a firm structure, which also makes them wind-resistant. At the same time, they have a pleasant, soft feel. The secret of boiled wool fabrics is quite simple: What is the death of every wool sweater leads to a desired compaction of the wool fibers. Boiling causes the wool fibers to entangle with each other. This shrinks the fabric but makes it particularly durable. After drying, this very strong, yet pleasantly soft fabric can be processed into garments whose properties make them ideal for outdoor use. The result is weather-resistant clothing that does not require any chemicals to make it water-repellent.
tanning
Tanning is the treatment of rot-prone animal hides with tanning agents. This complex process creates a new material that is more elastic, supple, rot-resistant, and water-resistant. Tanning methods include vegetable, mineral, and fat tanning (chamois tanning).
Buttock width
Measurement for trousers. Measured horizontally at the fullest part of the buttocks. A finger is placed under the tape measure for comfort. For men's trousers, this corresponds to the hip measurement.
tissue
A fabric is a sheet of two or more thread systems that intersect at right angles in the warp and weft directions. The warp runs parallel to the selvedge, and the weft runs at right angles. The following information is required to identify a fabric: raw material, yarn type, weaving technique, weave, setting, pattern, type of finish, and, if necessary, the basis weight.
vest
In French, a general term for all types of vests, in German, "gilet" refers to a tailored, body-hugging vest with elaborate decorations on the front and a simple back made of lining.
Patent leather
Soft, shiny leather made from lamb or kid hide (fur from a domestic goat just a few weeks old). Traditionally used for making gloves.
smooth leather
Smooth leather is the name given to all types of leather made from the hide side of the skin. It can be smooth, grained, textured, shiny, or matte. Surfaces achieved through a special brushing process are called "brushed leather."
Glencheck
Glencheck (English: glen = valley (in the Scottish Highlands) and check = check pattern) is a worsted fabric in an even-sided twill weave, in which light and dark threads alternate in the warp and weft, creating small checks and stripes that group together to form wider stripes and overchecks. Glencheck is used for suits and costumes.
Golf crease
A box pleat on the right and left back of a jacket. This runs from the shoulder seam to the waist seam and increases the jacket's comfort. Jackets with a golf pleat are called golf jackets.
GORE-TEX®
A functional fabric from Gore. Gore-Tex® is used as a liner or laminate. GORE-TEX® products combine durable waterproofness and windproofness with optimal breathability.
Guanaco wool
Underhair (wool and down hair) of the Guanaco sheep-camel breed living wild in the Andes.
Quality mark
Pictograms represent precisely defined quality standards. The product must meet these standards to be awarded the seal. Examples of quality marks include the cotton and linen mark, the wool seal, the silk mark, and the synthetic fiber mark.
Houndstooth
A plain weave fabric featuring a two- or multi-colored check pattern. The claw-like extensions at the corners of the checks create the impression of a rooster's footprint. Textiles with a houndstooth pattern are woven in a plain weave. The pattern is often black and white; other color combinations are less common.
Shark collar
The cutaway collar is the most modern collar style and features a wide collar position. It is also known as a shark collar or cutaway collar. The hallmark of a cutaway collar is its widely spaced collar wings, which look as if a piece had been bitten or cut off the classic Kent collar. Cutaway collar shirts are best combined with suits with wide lapels and a tie with a large knot.
Hand stitch
Edge seam, characterized by longer, interrupted stitches. The name refers to the handcrafted look of these decorative, brightly contrasting seams.
shirt blouse
The blouse, which is based on a men's shirt, is characterized by a straight cut, cuffs, a shirt collar and a button placket.
shirt dress
A dress with a shirt-style top and a straight or flared skirt. The button placket is either on the top only or is continuous. The dress is belted.
shirt jacket
Jacket designed in a loose cut, equipped with a shirt collar, partly also patch breast pockets, shoulder saddle and side slits.
handle
A loop of thread that is placed in the needle head in addition to the stitch formed in the previous row; this stretches the previous stitch.
High Twist
Fine, twisted yarns are woven into a lightweight fabric. The result is a modern weave look and a grainy feel. Special advantages: crease-resistant, resilient, and a cool, dry feel.
Staghorn buttons
Stag horn buttons are a staple in every traditional costume. Contemporary styles are given a typically rustic and elegant touch by the natural material fasteners. Due to the special properties of the natural raw material, these buttons are not only particularly robust and durable, but also highly individual. Patterns and colors vary depending on the origin of the base material. This makes the variety of options endless, so there's something to suit even the most unusual requests.
hemstitch
Border decoration characterized by its openwork texture. Threads are pulled out, and the remaining ones are gathered together with a loop stitch.
Horn button
Made from the hooves or horns of various animals. Often used in traditional clothing.
trouser turn-up
The outward-folded cuff of the trouser leg should be long enough to rest on the shoes at the front, bending slightly and touching the heel of the shoe at the back.
hip width
Measurement for women's trousers; measured as the circumference of the fullest part of the buttocks. A finger is placed under the tape measure for convenience. For men's trousers, the buttocks width corresponds to the hip width.
Impregnation
Textiles are soaked in or sprayed with water-repellent chemicals, but their breathability must not be impaired.
inch
Inch is an American unit of length and corresponds exactly to 2.54 centimeters.
indigo
Indigo has been used since pre-Christian times as a dye, producing a deep, almost violet blue. Indigo can be obtained naturally from the Indian indigo plant or the European woad. Synthetic indigo has been produced since 1870 and gives denim fabrics their characteristic color. The "blue jeans" invented by Levi Strauss owe their name to the blue of indigo. The indigo dye is sensitive to light and friction. The textile industry uses these properties to give denim garments a "used look."
Intarsia (knitting style)
In its original meaning, intarsia is a special inlay technique in woodworking. Different types of wood are combined to create decorative ornaments. In the fashion industry, this term is used to describe a special type of knitting in which contrasting-colored motifs and patterns are incorporated into the knitted fabric. Intarsia is a single-bedded knit in which the colored threads do not run through the entire knitted fabric. Intarsia is often used as fashionable decorative ornaments in sweaters, hats, and scarves, as well as dresses and other knitwear.
Interlock (knitting style)
Fine, very stretchy, double-face knit fabric. Both sides of the fabric have "right stitches." Interlock is produced on two needle beds, where the needles are positioned exactly opposite each other and work alternately. This results in a warm, stretchy, smooth fabric surface that retains its shape permanently, ensuring a high level of comfort.
Icelandic wool
Icelandic wool comes from Icelandic sheep, native to the harsh Nordic regions. The dense wool is particularly warm, strong, and water-repellent.
isolation
Insulation is the ability to store heat.
IWS
International Wool Secretariat, representing the interests of wool producers, promoting and protecting the quality of new wool products. Now the Woolmark Company.
Jacquard
Jacquard is a weaving technique that enables machine-printed, endless patterns. Named after its inventor, a French weaver, the technique is based on this technique. The patterns can be knitted, embroidered, or crocheted and require a pattern to be applied to or incorporated into the base fabric. This is done using a special Jacquard loom or appropriate knitting machines.
hunter's leashes
Plain weave fabric made of linen, half-linen, or cotton. The use of different shades of green in the yarn gives the fabric a mottled appearance.
jacket
Bavarian-Austrian traditional jacket. Characterized by its straight cut, often without a collar or with a stand-up collar. Horn or metal buttons, appliqués, or embroidery intensify the traditional character.
jeans
According to tradition, the word "jeans" is derived from the name of the Italian port city of Genoa. "Genoese" was the name given to Italian sailors who wore plain-cut work trousers made of heavy cotton twill. In American slang, this gave rise to the word "jeans."
jersey
Jersey is a soft, stretchy fabric, also known as tricot. It can be knitted or warp-knitted from viscose yarns and viscose blends, as well as wool, wool blends, cotton, or silk. Visually, it presents itself as a woven fabric with a light rib pattern. It is a single- or double-weave knitted fabric characterized by its crease-resistance and limited stretchability. Formerly, single-weave knitted vests made of coarse wool, such as those worn by fishermen on the English island of Jersey, where the material was first produced. Different types of jersey are distinguished according to the respective manufacturing technique, such as the loose, stretchy single jersey and the more robust double jersey.
Jodhpur trousers
Riding breeches, balloon-shaped on the thighs, tight-fitting on the lower legs. The crotch and seat are usually reinforced on the inside with an abrasion-resistant material (e.g., leather) and are narrow from the knee down, but cut wide enough to fall over the boot. The name is derived from the Indian princely state of Jodhpur, known for its horse breeding and the popularity of polo.
Jute (JU)
Bast fiber from the stem of the jute plant. Jute fibers are highly woody and irregular in texture. Their strength and elasticity are comparable to linen fibers. They are used for packaging fabrics, carpet backings, and wall coverings, among other things.
camel hair
Camel hair comes from one- or two-humped camels, which shed up to four kilograms of wool each year. The more valuable wool comes from the two-humped camel, which lives in East and Central Asia. Camel hair refers to the four- to six-centimeter-long, mostly light-brown, slightly wavy down hairs and the fifteen-centimeter-long, darker guard hairs of the camel. Coats and blankets made of camel hair are very popular because they are very lightweight, felt-resistant, and warm.
worsted
A particularly smooth, round, and uniform yarn that can also be spun in finer yarn counts. In a preliminary process, the long fiber material is combed, meaning it is well oriented lengthwise and cleaned of short fibers.
kapok
Kapok belongs to the group of "plant hairs" and is cultivated in the subtropics. Kapok fibers come from the interior of the kapok fruit, which is formed in various tropical "wool trees," such as the cotton tree of West Africa. This tree grows without chemical pollution, mostly in the rainforest, and grows up to 70 meters tall. Kapok is six times lighter than cotton, thermoregulating, and breathable. Due to its silky feel, kapok is also called plant cashmere. Thanks to the development of an innovative process, kapok can be spun with cotton. Due to the naturally high fat and air content of 80 percent, the kapok fibers are water-repellent, fine, and soft.
felled seam
A double seam in which two pieces of fabric are placed on top of each other so that one piece protrudes. The excess is folded over the other piece and then stitched over it.
Carbonize
A finishing process to remove cellulose-containing components from wool. The plant components become brittle through treatment with mild acid, allowing them to be removed by blowing.
cashmere
High-quality wool obtained by annually combing or plucking the downy hair of cashmere goats (approx. 100 g per animal). Due to its high price, the soft, supple, and shiny cashmere wool is usually blended with other types of wool and used for valuable clothing fabrics. Cashmere wool has excellent heat retention properties and is very light and fine.
box pleat
Also known as a pinch pleat. A relatively deep pleat in which two ironed folds are brought close together until they meet. The fabric between the two folds forms the pleat. This can be sewn in place along its edges, creating a spring pleat at the end of its seams.
Kent collar
The collar is particularly characterized by its wide, wide shape and tapered collar ends, making it very flexible when it comes to tie knots. All knots, tie styles, and bow ties are suitable for this very fashionable collar. It was originally developed for use with the double Windsor knot—the favorite tie-tying technique of the first Duke of Kent, who felt constrained by the collar shapes commonly used at the time, and from whom the collar, specially developed for him, takes its name.
Warp and weft
The longitudinal threads in the fabric are called the warp, the transverse threads are called the weft.
Chaining
A high-quality seam typical of flat knitting for sewing knitwear. Each stitch is individually (!) cast on to a chain stitch so that the sewing thread can be precisely inserted into the stitches.
Knickerbockers
Wide-cut trousers with a flap that covers the fixed waistband.
Knee breeches
Narrow-cut trousers with a fixed waistband. Unlike knickerbockers, knee-length trousers have a narrow fit, meaning they don't flare out.
Knee lining
Front lining for women's and men's trousers, especially woolen items. Advantages: improved wearability, prevents scratching.
Crease protection finish
Cotton is treated with synthetic resins to make it more elastic and reduce creasing.
Knitwear
General term for knitted fabric.
Koller
A moderately wide doubling on the front and/or back of a coat or jacket fabric, borrowed from the military, occasionally asymmetrical at the front. Also used to cover ventilation openings with slits or permeable materials in sportswear and rainwear, sometimes only hinted at as yoke stitching.
Twill weave
This weave is often used for trouser fabrics. It can be recognized by its twill weave: the warp thread always lies over at least two weft threads, which offsets the row of fabrics. The upper warp threads create a kind of diagonal stripe. This is a diagonal ridge in woven fabrics. Twill refers to a basic weave type for fabrics. Twill fabrics are durable cotton, satin, or linen fabrics. The thread count defines the thickness of the fabric, its surface, and its strength. A more common name for twill is twill, which is used for trousers, sturdy blouses, and workwear. Linen twill is used to create feminine, cool summer dresses, skirts, and blazers. Twill fabrics are available in many weaving and printing techniques. They can be strong and rough, but also very soft and loose. A unique feature is the diagonal burr. The most well-known example of twill is the blue and white denim fabric. If the burr runs from bottom left to top right, experts refer to it as a Z-burr twill. If the burr runs in the opposite direction, the fabric has an S-burr twill.
Chalk stripes
Dark wool fabric can be decorated with light contrasting stripes. Lightly roughening the fabric blurs the contours.
rolled-up sleeves
Roll-up sleeves are variable sleeves that can be worn both long and short. To allow for the shorter version, the sleeves are usually cut a bit wider. Most garments with roll-up sleeves have an internal tab and an external button to secure the sleeve. Roll-up sleeves were originally part of classic uniforms and functional safari clothing.
Broken Twill
A twill weave with a regularly alternating direction. Also called "broken twill."
synthetic fibers
Synthetic fibers are fibers that do not occur naturally. The thread is produced using a spinning mass that is forced through spinnerets with even pressure.
Coachman's coat
The coachman's coat was named after its former wearers, the coachmen. Typical features include its loose cut and attached pelerine (a cape-like shoulder cape).
Llama hair
Llamas live in extreme climatic conditions in the highlands of the Andes of South America. The so-called camel-sheep, which are descended from wild guanacos and vicuñas, are smaller than camels but larger than alpacas. The female animals are raised for wool. The llama can only be sheared every two years, making their silky hair, which comes in a variety of natural colors from white to black and dark brown to reddish brown, both precious and rare. Just as the animals are protected from temperature extremes by their coats, humans also benefit from the temperature-regulating advantages of llama hair. It provides a balancing, natural warmth for comfort and well-being. Furthermore, it repels dirt and water, making llama hair resilient.
Lambswool
Lambswool is the wool from the first shearing of lambs up to six months old. Although it is short and not very strong, it is particularly fine and soft and is mostly used for knitwear. The fibers have a fine point, are soft, and have a delicate crimp.
Laminat
Inseparable bonding of various textile surfaces and membranes using the finest hot-melt adhesive dots. Two-layer laminate/direct laminate: Membrane laminated to the back of the outer fabric, covered by a loosely integrated lining. Properties: high water vapor permeability, high wearing comfort, windproof and waterproof.
Lamb nappa
Lambskin nappa is a supple, smooth leather made from lambs, but nappa leather can essentially come from any animal species. The name derives from the Napa Valley in the USA, where this type of leather was originally developed primarily for use in gloves and winter clothing.
leaching
To reduce the extent of shrinkage in fabrics made from cellulose fibers, they are treated with an alkaline solution. The resulting shrinkage is intended to counteract the risk of subsequent shrinkage.
leather
Leather is one of humanity's oldest cultural assets. Leather is the skin of various animals, dehaired and preserved through tanning. It includes goatskin, sheepskin, horseskin, and reptile leather. However, leather most commonly comes from cattle or calves. The quality of animal hide depends on the animal's origin, lifestyle, diet, sex, species, and age. The process of tanning was already known to the ancient Egyptians in the 4th century BC.
Imitation leather / polyurethane
Imitation leather (polyurethane) is almost indistinguishable from genuine leather due to its grain and soft texture. It's just as fashionable as leather, but easier to care for and offers consistent material quality. Because it eliminates the complex manufacturing processes of genuine leather, imitation leather is more cost-effective.
Waist height
The rise is also known as the waistband height and indicates the height of the waistband. It is calculated from the difference between the side length and the inseam.
Linen
A textile raw material obtained from the flax plant. Linen fibers consist of 70% cellulose, the remainder being plant glue. Both components give the fiber stiffness, strength, shine, and absorbency. Like cotton, linen is processed alone or in blends with synthetic or other natural fibers. Linen feels stronger and cooler than cotton and can also absorb moisture more quickly. Linen is a distinctly summer fabric because its fiber structure cannot retain heat and is therefore cooler. The fine crinkle is also rooted in the fiber, as it is completely inelastic. Linen is the oldest of all fiber plants used for textile production. In ancient Egypt, immaculately white linen was considered a symbol of divine purity. Even the Egyptian mummies from the pyramids were wrapped in linen. Towards the end of the previous century, linen was replaced by cotton. With the increasing interest in ecological natural fibers since the end of the 20th century, linen is regaining importance.
plain weave
Also called a cloth weave. It is the oldest and simplest type of thread crossing and is characterized by the fact that the weave points touch each other on all sides. Each warp thread lies alternately over and under a weft thread. Therefore, plain weave fabrics generally have high abrasion and slip resistance.
welt pocket
A welt pocket is a pocket whose top edge is reinforced with an additional strip of fabric (the welt). The strip of fabric, whose width can vary, is placed around the top edge and sewn on both sides. This elegantly conceals the pocket opening. Welt pockets are particularly common on jackets, vests, coats, or even on the back of trousers. Welt pockets come in different designs: on jackets, they tend to be straight, while on sweatshirts or blazers, they are often placed at an angle. A button with a loop can serve as a closure, but a so-called flap, a fabric flap sewn over the opening, rests on the pocket opening without any additional closure.
Left/Left (knitting style)
This knitting technique alternates between a knit and purl row. Both sides of the fabric look the same and show only purl stitches.
Loafers
Originally designed as footwear for college students, the loafer is a shoe that does not require laces or any other fastenings. The shaft runs under the foot and is closed at the top with a vamp insert. The heeled outsole provides secure footing.
Loden
Durable carded fabric. A distinction is made between striped loden (heavy quality) and cloth loden (light, soft-flowing quality). It is often elaborately rolled in several steps, making it particularly weatherproof. Loden is a typical quality for country-style fashion and is used primarily for coats, jackets, suits, and hats.
Lovat Tweed
The traditional weaving mill Lovat Mill has been located in Hawick, Scotland, on the banks of the River Teviot, since 1826. The sturdy tweed is warm and resistant, even to moisture. Its color variations are reminiscent of the Scottish landscape.
Lumberjack
Waist-short, sporty waistband jacket shape that, unlike the blouson, does not bunch at the waistband.
lurex
Lurex is the registered trademark for a polyester yarn developed in England that, thanks to a special manufacturing process, has a metallic effect. Woven with other synthetic, wool, or cotton yarns, it lends garments a special flair that makes them appear striking and extravagant. The more densely woven, the stronger its silver or gold metallic effect.
Chandelier
The term "luster" is derived from the French "lustre" (shine) and refers to the surface shine of the shimmering fabric. The fabric is plain weave and consists of linked cotton. The weft is made of worsted, mohair, or alpaca ("fil lustré" = "lustrous yarn"). The fabric was used more frequently in the past than it is today, primarily for outerwear such as jackets, aprons, and school uniforms.
lycra
A manufacturer's brand from Du Pont. A highly elastic fiber that is spun with other materials (natural or synthetic fibers). Lycra is a very high-quality synthetic fiber characterized by elasticity, durability, and quick-drying properties. This gives a fabric (e.g., cotton) resilience and makes it less prone to wrinkling. The garment provides greater freedom of movement and comfort.
Lyocell
Lyocell, also sold under the brand name Tencel® by Lenzing, is a cellulose fiber that is industrially produced from natural raw materials—particularly eucalyptus wood. The fiber is extracted from the wood using a non-toxic solvent and then spun. It is biodegradable. The material is ideal for jersey, knitwear, and woven fashion garments. The fiber combines numerous positive properties: It has a smooth surface, provides almost as much warmth as virgin sheep's wool, and is tear-resistant when wet. Lyocell is also very durable. Similar to linen, it feels cool to the touch and effectively wicks moisture away from the body, absorbing 50 percent more water than cotton.
Madras
A very fine, plain-weave cotton fabric. Characterized by large, arranged checks. The color white is never found in Madras fabric; the design is kept without contrast.
cuff
A piece of fabric that closes the sleeve of a shirt or blouse. Cuffs can vary in shape and, depending on their design, require a cufflink for closure. An important wearing tip: the cuff should always extend to the back of the hand and thus protrude slightly from the jacket sleeves when worn over a jacket. There are different types of cuffs, which can be differentiated as follows: turn-up cuffs, sports cuffs, and combination cuffs.
mesh
The stitch is a loop of thread that is hooked into other stitches and thus gets its stability.
knitted fabric
Collective term for all products made from mesh.
Reusable bag
The reusable bag is characterized by its multifunctionality, with several openings and closure types making this possible.
Blend
The term "melange" comes from the French language and means "mixture." In fabrics and yarns, melange means that two or more differently colored threads are combined. This creates varied patterns that give fabrics and yarns a distinctive look. The melange effect can be created by using different yarns or by printing.
Melange yarn
Material dyed differently in the combed yarn or flake, i.e., before the actual spinning process (e.g., 50% white and 50% black creates a gray effect). Not to be confused with mouliné yarns.
membrane
A membrane is a wafer-thin film that is glued or welded to the fabric to create waterproof yet breathable materials. The membrane can form the outer skin or be incorporated between two fabrics. A distinction is made between membranes with microfine pores (e.g., Gore-Tex®), which are more easily destroyed by mechanical impact, and non-porous membranes (e.g., Sympatex), which are more robust. To maintain the functionality of the membrane, it is important to avoid using fabric softeners during care and to rinse thoroughly to remove detergent residue.
Mercerizing
Mercerization is the finishing of cotton products and dates back to the Englishman John Mercer, who discovered by chance in the 19th century that caustic soda could positively influence the properties of cotton fabric. Treatment with the caustic soda causes the fibers to swell and change their properties: they become stronger and more stable, and they are also easier to dye, which is a huge advantage for clothing production. Mercerized cotton also acquires a special shine, similar to silk, which is wash-resistant. Similar effects can be achieved with treatment with ammonia. Mercerization increases shine, dye absorption, strength, stretch, and elasticity. Blends of cotton and synthetic fibers can also be mercerized.
Merino wool
Merino wool comes from Merino sheep bred in Spain and is a particularly high-quality and very soft wool. Its extremely fine fibers make it very pleasant on the skin and non-itchy. Export bans restricted Merino sheep breeding to the most distinguished courts in Europe. In 1723, the export ban was lifted, and it was exported throughout Europe and even to Australia. This type of wool from Merino sheep produces fine to very fine quality. It is highly crimped and has a soft feel. Merino is a very high-quality wool.
Mesh
Mesh is a net-like fabric that makes clothing more breathable, better ventilated, and lighter. It performs different additional functions in each product.
Microfiber
Extremely fine and lightweight chemical fiber belonging to the polyester or polyamide group. Extremely fine filaments, with a fineness designation of less than 1 dtex (10,000 m of a filament weighs 1 g). For comparison: Cotton has a fineness of 1.5 to 2.5 dtex, meaning 10,000 m of fiber weigh up to 2.5 g, while the fineness of microfiber is less than 1 dtex. But the fabric has even more to offer: It is also dimensionally stable, soft, and quite durable, which is why it is preferred for the production of wind- and water-repellent functional fashion. Microfiber textiles also have another major advantage: they do not pill.
microfleece
A modern high-tech fiber, usually made of polyester. Millions of microfine fibers form a knit that protects against wind, cold, and moisture. The material is breathable and transports any resulting body moisture to the outside.
Mill Cure
This is a finishing process. The fabric is impregnated with special synthetic resins before production and then dried at high temperatures. During this process, the fibers form a new molecular bond with the synthetic resins. This process makes the fabric easy to iron, dimensionally stable, and washable. However, the wear properties of the cotton remain virtually unchanged.
Mill Washed
A term for a finishing process for athletic fabrics. The outer fabric is pre-washed several times by the weaver. This washing process prevents further shrinkage and gives the fabric a soft feel and a casual surface.
Minimal design
A minimal design refers to a small, uniform pattern, usually covering the entire textile. Geometric shapes such as circles or diamonds are placed close together. Sometimes the elements contrast significantly with the base color of the fabric, but can also be in almost the same tone or embroidered or sewn onto the garment using different materials. This design, often barely discernible from a distance, is frequently used for ties, shirts, and trousers.
Modal
Modal is a synthetic fiber made from 100% cellulose and is often referred to as a modified (improved) viscose because the fiber is softer, yet more stable and stronger. Compared to viscose, modal has improved tear and abrasion resistance. Modal fibers also possess similar properties to cotton and are therefore often used in blends for high-quality products. Modal gives cotton an elegant feel and subtle sheen.
mohair
Mohair is the name given to the long-haired, finely fluffy wool of the Angora goat. To avoid confusion with the hair of the Angora rabbit, the Angora goat is referred to as "wool" and the Angora rabbit as "hair." Mohair goats originate from the Asian highlands, but are also kept in America, the Cape Province of South Africa, and Southern Europe. Mohair is pleasantly light and wonderfully warm. It is used for elegant sweaters and scarves.
Moiré
The term comes from French and means "marbled." Moiré fabric is usually made of silk or synthetic fibers. It is characterized by its typical pattern, reminiscent of wood grain or water ripples. The varying brightnesses are created by forcefully pressing two layers of the ribbed original fabric together using heated, cylindrical rollers. Since the ribs are never exactly parallel, flatter, shiny areas appear at the intersection points. Since the displacement of the ribs is random, the resulting pattern does not repeat.
moccasin
This type of shoe was originally made from a single piece of deerskin, sometimes also from two pieces of hide. When two pieces of hide were combined, one of the pieces of hide was used for the sole, the other as the vamp insert. Moccasins originate from the cultural heritage of Native Americans. The design of the moccasins varied depending on the respective tribe and was decorated with, for example, shells, beads, and porcupine quills. Since this type of shoe lacked a sole in the modern sense and the leather underside wore out quickly, shoes were always produced in advance by the indigenous peoples of North America and were sought-after barter goods. Today's moccasins have little in common with the original shoes. These are made much more sturdily, have an additional sole, and a lining.
moleskin
Moleskin (also known as English leather or pilot leather) is a strong, single-colored cotton fabric in a twill or weft satin weave, with a high weft density and a low warp density. Unlike German leather, after weaving, it is sanded and roughened on the wrong side, giving it a soft surface and feel reminiscent of suede or velvet. Moleskin, now a rare commodity, is primarily used to make durable, warm workwear.
Molton
Soft, plain-weave cotton fabric, brushed on both sides, medium to heavy weight. Often produced using the double weft technique (top and bottom weft).
Mouliné
A yarn made of individually colored threads. The color effect is used as a pattern. The mouliné effect can also be achieved by combining different yarns on the knitting machine (= mottled). Not to be confused with melange yarns.
Garbage
Cotton fabric in plain weave. The very loose weaving of the warp and weft threads creates the typical fabric appearance.
Multi Gauge (knitting style)
A special type of knitting in which different gauges are combined within a single knitted fabric. Special knitting machines are required for production.
Muslin (Mousseline)
Muslin is a loosely woven fabric made of cotton, wool, or viscose. The fabric's quality is characterized by the soft, inconspicuous fluff on its surface. Muslin fabrics are particularly light and airy, making them a favorite for summer fashion.
pinstripes
Needle-thin stripes in worsted fabrics created by separating one or two contrasting warp threads.
Nano-Protection
Nanoproducts penetrate microscopically small material pores and seal the fiber surface without affecting the textile's feel. This creates an outer fabric comparable to the self-cleaning surface of the lotus flower. Water and dirt repellent, breathable, quick-drying, and moisture-wicking.
Nappa leather
Nappa leather is recognizable by its smooth, supple, and often slightly grained surface. This fine surface texture originates from the original animal hide and is typical of the leather's natural radiance. Each piece made of nappa leather therefore has its own individual character and becomes more beautiful with each passing year thanks to its patina.
Naté
Aida or panama weave fabric, characterized by a grainy, porous character.
Norfolk jacket
The typical jacket cut is characterized by a short lapel, patch bellows pockets with flaps, box pleats in the back, and a back belt. The design elements are further intensified by broad quilting.
Norwegian pattern
A folkloristic knitting pattern, designed in two or more colors. It features motifs inspired by winter nature, such as ice crystals, reindeer, and fir trees, often arranged in a border-like pattern.
Nubuck leather
Nubuck leather is characterized by its velvety surface, which is created by careful sanding on the grain side. This gives the leather its fine, velvety surface structure. Nubuck leather is made from pure-grain calfskins and cowhides, and sometimes also pigskins.
nylon
Nylon is a polyamide (more precisely: polyhexamethylene adipamide). Originally, it was the brand name of the first polyamide fiber from DuPont. Nylon was previously used primarily for the production of stockings (nylons). The polyamide fiber is particularly elastic and extremely stretchable. Nylon is also a tear-resistant material. The fabric is breathable and also prevents moisture from accumulating on the skin, allowing air to circulate well within the garment.
Open-edged processing
A processing variant in which connecting seams are visible. Cut edges are deliberately neither trimmed nor folded.
Oil-dyed
The term "oil-dyed" refers to the resulting appearance of the dyeing process used: In this process, the respective textiles are cold-dyed after sewing. This creates washed-out effects that may include larger and smaller marbling of the fabric. This gives the textiles an exciting, intentionally spotty, oily-dirty two-tone appearance. Due to the special dyeing process, garments dyed using the oil-dyed process should only be machine washed in cold water.
Oeko-Tex Standard 100
The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 only considers the harmful residues in the final product. It does not consider the production steps or operational environmental protection.
Ombre
Fabrics characterized by seamless color transitions. This effect is created by the choice of weave or by printing on the fabric.
Organic Cotton
KbA (controlled organic cultivation) is the quality seal for cotton that is grown without the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides and, more recently, can also be processed without the use of environmentally harmful substances. This quality seal is certified by state-recognized and independent institutes. Organic cotton is currently the best quality cotton from an ecological perspective. Due to its skin-friendly properties, organic cotton is ideal for underwear worn directly against the skin. It is particularly suitable for people with sensitive skin.
Ottoman
Jacket and coat fabrics characterized by wide horizontal ribs. Woven in plain weave or rib weave.
outdoor jacket
Jacket suitable for outdoor use and equipped accordingly.
Overall
The overall is a one-piece garment with the trousers firmly attached to the top. Overalls were originally developed as workwear and, thanks to the small number of openings, offer increased protection against injuries, fire, and dirt.
Overdyed
Cotton fabric that is overdyed before being processed into a garment.
Overlock seam
Another name for overcast seam.
Overshirt
A very loose, casual-fitting shirt, suitable for layering over another garment. In warm temperatures, an overshirt replaces a summer jacket.
Oversized
Oversized clothing is a fashion trend. For the casual oversized look, T-shirts, sweaters, and blouses are deliberately made too large. They are figure-hugging and hang very loosely.
Oxford
Name for a specific check pattern (Oxford check) in the typically English style. A sporty fabric with a plain weave. A white warp and colored weft make the colors appear softer. This fabric was named after the city of Oxford, as this sporty shirt fabric was once very popular among Oxford students.
oz
Abbreviation for the weight unit ounce (1 oz = 28.3 g) used in various English-speaking countries for the material weight of denim fabrics.
Padding
Padding comes from English and means filling material, padding, or cushioning. The term can refer to fabrics completely lined with an interlining, which is provided with quilted seams for better fixation, e.g., in stripes or diamonds.
Paisley
Paisley is the name given to an abstract, decorative fabric pattern whose basic form is a leaf with a pointed, curved end resembling a capital comma. It is also known in the USA as "Persian pickles." The pattern is named after the Scottish city of Paisley, which was an important textile manufacturing center in the 19th century. The origin of the paisley pattern goes back to a floral motif originating from the Persian Sassanid Empire (the Boteh pattern). It was introduced to India and Great Britain via the Mughals, where it first became popular.
overcoat
Elegant, single- or double-breasted short coat with a velvet-lined lapel collar. Cut close to the waist and featuring flap pockets.
Panama
Porous fabric with a cube-like weave pattern caused by the Panama weave, a multi-thread cloth weave (derived from the plain weave).
Panne velvet
Velvet made from filament yarns, characterized by its strong luster. The pile of the fabric is flattened (panned) into any desired pattern during production by ironing or pressing. Unlike classic velvet, panned velvet is knitted, not woven, and therefore bi-elastic and stretchable.
parka
The word "parka" comes from the Inuit language and means heat (from the sun or a stove). A sporty jacket, usually designed for very low temperatures, with a warm or fur lining, including the hood. It reaches mid-thigh and has numerous pockets. Drawstring at the waist and bottom hem.
Piping
Piping is a band used to edging edges and seams. It originally served as a type of reinforcement strip on soldiers' clothing. Edge piping has been used primarily as an ornament since the 19th century. It emphasizes the contours and cut of clothing. Piping consists of a strip of fabric folded lengthwise. A cord can be inserted between the layers. When the seam is closed, the piping is carried along. This makes the folded edge of the fabric strip visible in the form of a small bulge, emphasizing the seam line. There are both edge piping and pocket piping. Necklines on T-shirts and bags are often piped.
Piping pocket
The most common pocket shape for trousers. Another seam is stitched parallel to the pocket seam, creating a narrow strip. A piped pocket consists of two piping pieces inserted so that the pocket opening is hemmed by these piping pieces.
Passe
A part of the shoulder area that is set off on the front and/or back of clothing, usually highlighted by quilting.
flap pocket
A flap pocket has a flap covering the pocket opening, available in various shapes and widths, loose or buttoned. A flap pocket is applied horizontally to the garment and features an opening.
Peau de Pêche (peach skin)
Fabric with a roughened and sanded surface.
pelerine
A pelerine (also called a pellerine or pelarine, from the French pèlerine, "pilgrim") is a short shoulder cape that resembles a cape and is worn over a coat. The original form of the pelerine is the "weather patch" (or "kotzen") made of loden or a similar material, popular in Alpine countries.
cape sleeves
Relatively long, bell-shaped sleeves.
Pepita
Pepita (named after the Spanish dancer Pepita de Oliva, 1830-1871) is the general name for dress fabrics made of wool, cotton, viscose in twill weave with black and white, slightly frayed-looking block checks.
Pearl catching (knitting style)
In pearl tassel stitch, a row in which all needles are knitting alternates with a row of stitches in the front and loops in the back. On the front, you can see pronounced, slightly curved, knit stitches (a "pearl"). This knitting style is especially used for making thick winter sweaters.
mother-of-pearl buttons
Mother-of-pearl buttons are made from the inner shell layer of mussels or snails. Characteristic of this organic biomineral mother-of-pearl are its silky matte sheen and iridescent color palette, which can vary depending on the species and geographical origin. There is a wide variety of varieties, with brilliant white Makassar considered the most valuable. Due to their color variety, iridescent surface, and high stability, genuine mother-of-pearl buttons on blouses and shirts are considered a sign of quality.
Perlon
Since 1938, Perlon has been the trademark for a synthetic fiber developed in Germany as an alternative to nylon. During World War II, Perlon was used to make bristles for cleaning weapons, parachutes, and parts for aircraft tire production. In 1939, the synthetic fiber was marketed as Perlon L. It wasn't until 1943 that it was also used for the civilian production of women's stockings. Today, Perlon is used, among other things, in the production of men's socks.
Vegetable-tanned leather
This refers to leather that has been preserved with plant-based tanning agents. Plant-based tanning agents are obtained from bark, tanning wood, tannin-containing fruits, tanning leaves, and tanning roots.
Easy-care equipment
Finishing processes to give animal and cellulosic fibers the properties of synthetic fibers. Crease resistance, easier ironing, increased stability, and the possibility of simplified cleaning without reducing abrasion resistance.
Pigment dyes
Pigment dyeing can be used to achieve a vintage look. Dye particles are applied to the fabric using binding agents. Washing the finished garments creates fashionable wash-out effects and a sporty look. In contrast to reactive dyeing, the colors wash out more quickly with pigment dyeing, resulting in a washed-out appearance. The colors may vary from batch to batch. Pigment-dyed fabrics may only be washed with mild detergents, as temperatures above 60°C with heavy-duty detergents release oxygen, which attacks the pigment colors.
Pilling
Pilling is a clump of fibers up to 2 mm in size on textiles. Pilling is caused by abrasion during wear or by damage to the individual capillaries in filaments. Pills in synthetic materials are difficult to remove due to the high strength of the fibers. The unwanted pilling, which can occur in all types of knitwear, can be prevented during production through appropriate processing.
pilot jacket
Blouson, made of leather. Characteristic features are the two-way pockets on the front of the jacket and the typical small pocket on the left sleeve. Pilot jackets are often designed so that the decorative fur collar can be removed.
Pima Cotton = Cotton
A particularly fine, long-staple (= long fiber) cotton from Peru. This cotton is particularly soft, robust, and dimensionally stable with a silky sheen. To protect the fibers, Pima cotton is hand-picked, making it particularly clean and untreated, yet pest-free. Its fibers are extremely long and fine, giving this quality a slight sheen and preventing pilling.
Piqué (knitting style)
Piqué (French for "quilted") is a double weave made of cotton or viscose. Its special weave gives the fabric a quilted appearance. Piqué (often spelled "piqué") is a lightweight fabric with a waffle-like or grainy surface and can be either woven or knitted. It feels particularly light and comfortable against the skin. Its structure also makes pique particularly absorbent. Knitted pique is the typical material of classic polo shirts.
Plastron
A chest insert on blouses and shirts. In men's fashion, it also refers to a wide, often white tie worn with a cutaway or frock coat on formal occasions—for example, by the groom at weddings. In women's fashion, a plastron refers to a breast flap on blouses. The plastron owes its nickname "Ascot tie" to its connection to equestrian sports; it is still worn today as part of competition attire.
Plated (also: "Vanissé", knitting style)
A special technique in which one thread is covered by another during knitting. There are two types: a) quality-plated, which utilizes different properties of the material (wool on the outside and cotton on the inside); b) color-plated, which creates a patterned effect by covering different colors (= vanissé).
pleated blinds
The word "pleated" comes from the French and means "folded." Accordingly, this fabric is one in which firm pleats have been formed using various methods. With woven pleats, the ground warp is tightly woven, and the pleat chain is slightly taut. If crepe yarns or yarns with varying degrees of elasticity are woven in, the pleated effect is enhanced. Warp-knitted pleats are created on a special warp-knitting machine, where the three guide bars work differently. Knitted pleats are produced using a special knitting pattern. Chemically pleated fabrics are pleated through a sequence of treatments with synthetic resin, creating the pleats, and pressing under moist heat.
polo shirt
Supposedly inspired by the horizontally striped, round-necked, hip-length jersey shirt worn by the Maharaja of Jodhpur (an Indian city in Rajasthan) in 1901 for polo matches. Today, the common term for a shirt with a flat collar in a piqué structure and a button placket or zipper.
Polyacryl
Polyacrylic is a fully synthetic fiber with some wool-like properties (high loft, good heat retention), which is why it is often found in wool blends. Polyacrylic is very durable, has high heat retention, and is light and weather-resistant. Furthermore, the material's high elasticity ensures a shape-stable fit that remains intact even after many washes.
polyamide
In the production of synthetic fibers, raw materials such as petroleum and nitrogen are used, which are chemically converted. Polyamide is a chemical fiber made from synthetic polymers, which is usually blended with natural fibers (wool, linen, cotton) for textile products. Polyamide's most prominent properties are strength and dimensional stability. The desired properties of the fiber are achieved through the addition of special additives. The fiber is characterized by dimensional stability and resistance to wear. Of all chemical fibers, polyamide exhibits the highest tear and abrasion resistance. The best-known manufacturers are Perlon and Nylon.
polyester
For production, see polyamide. Polyester is a fully synthetic fiber that is usually blended with natural fibers (wool, linen, cotton) for textile products. Polyester's most prominent properties are strength and shape retention. Polyester hardly wrinkles, dries very quickly, and is shrink-resistant and shape-retaining. As a jacket filling, polyester retains warmth well. The best-known manufacturers are Trevira and Diolen.
Polynosic
"Polymers non-synthetic" are modified viscose specialty fibers whose properties are roughly equivalent to those of cotton and are cellulosic chemical fibers. They are a subgroup of modal fibers. Compared to modal, polynosic offers greater strength and reduced stretch, as well as the possibility of mercerization. The fabrics resemble heavy, washed silk in appearance, feel, and drape, but cost less.
Polyurethan
Polyurethane is a petroleum-based synthetic fiber. Its high elasticity improves fit and comfort. The fiber absorbs little moisture, is easy to care for, and is durable. In foamed form, polyurethane is used as a coating for clothing because of its lightweight properties and its insulating properties. Therefore, it is often used for coating raincoats and rubber boots. Synthetic leather is also usually made from foamed polyurethane applied to a textile base.
poncho
The poncho is a sleeveless, cape-like garment that originated in South America, where it is worn by both men and women. It is quickly put on by the wearer putting their head through a hole in the top of the poncho. The basic shape of this warm garment, which can be worn as a fashionable alternative to a cardigan, is square. A poncho is usually made of woven or knitted material. In its special form as a rain poncho, it is made of water-repellent material.
Pongee
A plain weave fabric made of pure natural silk. Its light, smooth texture is characteristic; it is completely degummed but not weighted.
poplin
The term poplin refers to a dense fabric made of various yarns (cotton, linen, wool, or synthetic fibers) in a plain weave. Poplin is often used to describe particularly light, smooth, summery fabrics.
PrimaLoft®
PrimaLoft® is a synthetic insulation material characterized by its low weight, soft feel, and high breathability. It has excellent water-repellent properties to keep you dry, warm, and comfortable even in extreme conditions. PrimaLoft® insulation is particularly well-suited for low temperatures, as it provides all-around warmth.
Protectors
Protectors are built-in or sewn-on padding that protects a garment from wear and tear, whether attached to the elbow or knee area. High-quality protectors are primarily used in garments subject to high levels of stress. In shooting sportswear, where the primary goal is to mitigate recoil, the protectors are located in the shoulder area.
Sweater vest
Sleeveless sweater with a V- or round neck, worn over shirts and blouses.
Cross-elastic
... is an outer fabric that stretches horizontally through the use of stretch yarns.
crease
The appearance of a fold that is created by folding one fold to the right and the other to the left, followed by ironing or pleating.
Raglan sleeves
A special sleeve cut. The cut encloses the shoulder area, and the seams run diagonally into the collar seam. With a full raglan, the sleeve seams run in a curved shape from the neckline to the armhole. With a half raglan, the seam runs diagonally from a point on the shoulder line into the sleeve hole. This sleeve shape plays a major role in sports and leisure fashion. Garments with this sleeve shape are particularly comfortable. The raglan style is also popular for knitted sweaters. The name goes back to Lord Raglan, who lost an arm at the Battle of Waterloo. Therefore, he wore a coat of this cut during the Crimean War. It made dressing easier for him and was later named after him.
frame bag
A patch pocket with wide stitching all around. A flap pocket is always incorporated into the frame pocket.
ramie
Stem fiber of the ramie plant (Chinese grass). High-quality, linen-like, very strong, and silky-lustrous fiber. Growing areas: Florida, Indonesia, Philippines.
rapport
General term for the smallest, recurring pattern unit.
Roughen
Process in which a fluffy surface is created using nap cards.
diamond pattern (rhombus)
The diamond shape is a square standing on its tip. Other names: Argyle pattern, Burlington pattern.
Rayon
Rayon is also known as viscose. The material was formerly mostly called artificial silk and is structurally very similar to silk or cotton. Based on purified cellulose or wood pulp, a near-natural synthetic fiber is industrially produced using a wet-spinning process. Unlike cotton fibers, not only staple fibers but also continuous fibers (filaments) with a variety of applications can be produced. Viscose yarns are processed into textiles and clothing, among other things. Due to its increased water absorption capacity, rayon is skin-friendly and particularly comfortable to wear.
Right/Left (knitting style) (also: single-bed)
The fabric is produced on a needle bed and has two different-looking sides; one side shows only knit stitches, the other only purl stitches. Shirt and sweatshirt items are also referred to as single jersey.
Right/Right (knitting style)
Knit/knit is produced on two needle beds with the needles offset from each other. Both sides of the fabric show knit stitches.
Riding breeches
Ankle-length trousers, usually reinforced on the inside with an abrasion-resistant material (e.g. leather) and cut tight from the knee onwards, are worn in boots.
reverse
Turn-up on blouses, coats, blazers and jackets that are connected to the collar by a mirror seam.
Reversible
Reversible comes from the French word "reversible." It refers to garments that can be worn on both sides, such as reversible jackets or skirts. Such garments are usually somewhat thicker because two fabrics are sewn together. Buttons, zippers, and pockets are located on both sides. The first reversible jackets existed in ancient times, with a warm side and a cooler side.
Bar
Adjustable, quilted fabric strips of various widths and lengths for width adjustment or for fixing, also as decoration, e.g. as sleeve tabs, belt tabs, collar tabs or shoulder tabs.
Ring-spun yarn
Ring-spun yarn has intentional thickenings in the thread.
Ring-spun cotton
The most common spinning process for cotton is the three-cylinder spinning process. The cotton yarn is spun on a ring spinning machine. The principle of ring spinning produces particularly smooth, even, and fine yarns. A distinction is made between two types: carded cotton and the higher-quality, combed cotton.
Rinse washed
Rinse washing is one of the various washing methods used to treat jeans before sale. Unlike stonewashing, rinse washing does not alter the color of the jeans. The fabric is simply washed with clean water. Neither stones nor special bleaching agents are used. The rinse-washed method ensures that jeans do not shrink after the first wash. This wash also produces a particularly clear color appearance.
Rib (knitting style)
When producing ribbed fabrics, only select needles are used for knitting. The non-knitting needles create a vertical rib effect. This fabric is very cross-stretchy. Combining this technique with color plating (see "Plating") creates a vertically two-tone knit.
ribbed
All fabrics with a ribbed look (lengthwise and crosswise ribs) that are woven from fine-threaded worsted yarns.
Roman stripes
A popular design for blouse and shirt fabrics. Equally wide stripes in the base color and a complementary color alternate, with vertical or horizontal arrangements possible. Also often called sister stripes.
back strap
A belt that is attached to the back of coats and jackets for decoration and to maintain the width.
Back slits
Slits of varying heights on the hem of jackets and coats, in the middle or on the side.
circular knitting
On a circular knitting machine, the needles are arranged in a circle. The basic fabric for sweatshirts and shirts is produced on circular knitting machines.
Safari style
Inspired by earlier colonial uniforms, this rather loose style is characterized by design elements such as epaulettes, belts, and patch pockets. The typical colors used are khaki and sand.
Safety bags
English for "security pocket." An inside pocket on coats, jackets, and trousers with a Velcro, button, or zipper closure.
velvet
A soft fabric with a plush-like surface. Various finishing processes create either an elegant or sporty look. Velvet differs from plush in the length of its pile. Velvet's pile is the shortest (maximum two to three millimeters long), making it soft to the touch, but the hardest of the three. Due to the pile, velvet has a direction of texture, which causes the fabric to look and feel different with or against the grain. The direction of the texture must therefore be taken into account during processing.
Sanforizing
Mechanical finishing process for artificially anticipating the shrinkage of textiles (shrink-proofing).
Satin
Satin (French: satiné = silky sheen) is often used as an additional term for smooth, shiny, supple fabrics. The special weave (satin weave) gives the fabric two distinct sides. While one side is smooth and shiny and forms the outer surface of clothing, the other side is matte and more irregular.
shawl collar
A shawl collar wraps around the neck like a scarf. It blends seamlessly into the lapel, leaving no noticeable ledge. The seam is located at the center back of the collar. The depth of the shawl collar varies greatly from garment to garment.
slip-on blouse
A slip-on blouse is a casual blouse, usually designed without a button placket. It is simply pulled over the head. Some models have a small button placket that makes it easier to put on and take off.
pussy bow blouse
Instead of a collar, a draped ribbon is attached to the neckline. The ends of the ribbon extend outward and can be tied into a bow.
Sanding
Surface treatment of sweat or shirt fabric that creates a pleasant, soft feel.
plaid
Large check wool or cotton fabric in bold colors.
Inseam (trouser measurement)
Distance between crotch (slit) and leg end, measured at the inseam.
slip pocket
Vertically arranged welt or piped pockets.
Shoulder boards epaulettes
Shoulder boards of military origin for the attachment of rank insignia. Used in civilian clothing, they are usually attached from the collar seam through a loop at the sleeve, buttoned close to the neck, and serve a purely decorative function.
Virgin wool
New wool refers to textile fibers derived from the fur of living sheep. Humans have kept sheep as versatile livestock for thousands of years. Wool is thus one of the oldest materials used in textile production. New wool refers to all types of wool obtained through sheep shearing.
Scotchguard equipment
Finishing process to produce a water and dirt repellent fabric.
Seersucker
The term seersucker is derived from the Persian phrase "shir o shekar" (meaning "milk and sugar"). It is a very lightweight cotton fabric with an uneven surface and a striped pattern. The gathered stripes are created by varying the tension of the warp threads during the weaving process or by subsequently applying fiber-swelling substances. The fabric is virtually non-iron and therefore very easy to care for. Seersucker fabrics are often used for summer clothing because the structure of the fabric allows for good air circulation.
silk
This fine natural fiber is obtained from the cocoons of silkworms, the larvae of silk-spinning butterflies. It consists primarily of protein and is the only continuous textile fiber found in nature. It was transported to Europe via the Silk Road. India and Japan, along with China, are other important silk-producing countries. The pre-washing (mill washing) of natural silk gives the fabric a particularly cool and soft feel and a matte surface. In addition to its elegant luster, fineness, and suppleness, pure silk is characterized by its good insulation properties against both heat and cold, as well as its high moisture absorption.
silk satin
Precious satin fabric with a smooth surface and brilliant shine.
Side length (trouser measurement)
Distance between waistband and leg end, measured at the outer side seam.
singeing
A finishing treatment for cotton. In this process, the loose fibers protruding from the yarn are burned off by rapidly passing them over gas flames. This makes the treated fabric smoother, less linty, and prevents pilling.
serge
Serge is the French term for twill weave fabric. In this country, however, it usually refers to a fine, high-quality wool fabric.
Shape Memory
A new generation of easy-care polyester fibers with "shape memory." The fibers have a silky surface appearance and a special property: they return to their original (smooth) shape when exposed to heat (simply smoothing them by hand is sufficient).
Shetland wool
Shetland wool is the name given to slightly crimped, somewhat coarser sheep's wool that is used for sports textiles.
shorts
Shorts end a hand's width above the knee or mid-thigh. They are part of casual sportswear.
Silicone washed
A finishing process in textile finishing. Silicones are added during the washing process to achieve a very soft feel. This effect disappears after a few washes.
Single jersey (knitting style)
Fine, single-face knit fabric with two different-looking sides. One shows only knit stitches, the other shows only purl stitches. The material is breathable, extremely comfortable to wear, and its fine stitch pattern makes it particularly soft on the skin.
sisal
Sisal is a natural fiber obtained from the leaves of the sisal plant. Sisal is cultivated in Brazil, Indonesia, Mexico, and East Africa, among other places.
Slacks
The combination of jeans and casual wear. Slacks are modern cotton trousers with a typically casual look.
Slip-on
A straight-cut coat with raglan or deep set-in sleeves. It features a concealed button placket and a very small lapel. The dish-shaped collar with a wide collar stand is significantly larger than the lapel. Also called a box coat or top coat.
Slub
The term "slub" is derived from English and means "thickening (in the thread)." The character of the slub material is achieved through so-called slub yarns. Slub yarns feature elongated thickenings in a regular or irregular arrangement.
Softshell
Softshell jackets are generally lightweight and comfortable, but offer the benefits of two layers in one product: a mostly windproof functional fabric on the outside and a moisture-wicking fleece or thin velour fabric on the inside.
spade collar
Softly falling rash collar in the shape of a trapeze.
slip pocket
With a slip pocket, the entry is from the top, while the sides are sewn shut. Slip pockets are most commonly found on men's coats and trousers. They usually serve as watch or coin pockets.
Stone nut
The ivory nut, also called tagua nut, is the seed of the ivory nut palm, native to South America. This tree grows in the tropical rainforest, primarily in Ecuador, but is also found in Brazil, Peru, and Panama. The seeds, the taguas, develop within the fruit ball. They can be as large as walnuts; some are even the size of a chicken egg. The seeds of a fresh ivory nut are initially soft. After a drying period of several months, they harden so much that they are as hard as the nutshell. The brown-black skin is removed. Beneath, the light-colored seeds, the color of ivory, are revealed. They are easy to work with a carving knife. The dried kernels were often used to make buttons as a substitute for the much more expensive ivory buttons.
Stonewashed
When washing the finished garments, pumice stones are placed in the drum. This finishing process gives the textiles a worn appearance.
bumper band
Also called a trouser protector tape. It is usually 1.5 cm wide and is sewn to the left side of the bottom edge of the trousers. It prevents the trousers from chafing.
Strand dyeing
Dyeing of yarns in skein form. The unwound and unprocessed material absorbs the dye particularly well and evenly.
carded yarn
In contrast to worsted yarn, the fibers in this yarn are arranged somewhat randomly. This creates a woolly, rough surface. This yarn is used particularly in the winter collection on coarser gauges.
Stretch
The term "stretch" refers to a fabric that is stretchable due to its elastic fibers. Stretch can be cross-elastic, bi-elastic, or lengthwise elastic. Due to its properties, stretch is highly adaptable.
Strichloden (also Mantelloden)
Tightly milled loden. Its characteristic feature is its parallel, unidirectional fibers. The wool fibers are laid on top of each other, like roof tiles, creating a special, water-repellent structure. Additionally, striped loden is usually treated with a water-repellent finish, making it suitable for rain protection.
Suede
Suede (also called suede leather) is a material used in the manufacture of clothing, shoes, and bags. The term serves as a collective term for leather types with a rough or napped surface. Suede is characterized by its soft, warm feel. The name comes from the French: "Gants de Suède," or Swedish gloves, are gloves made of suede. Over time, the derived term "suede" for suede became common in the textile industry.
Suede
The term "suede" comes from French and refers to a suede imitation, which closely resembles velour. Suede is a synthetic fiber made of 100% polyester. This easy-care, soft-to-the-touch fabric can be produced in virtually any color and in various densities. In addition to outerwear, suede is also used in shoes, accessories, and as upholstery fabric for upholstered furniture. It is also a popular fabric for making teddy bears, especially their paw pads.
Super Wash
A finishing process used on pure new wool products. The new wool is made felt-free and easy-care, allowing it to be washed on a gentle cycle at 30°C. The Super Wash finish is permanent and does not alter the properties of the pure new wool.
Supima®
Supima is short for "Superior Pima," an extra-long-staple cotton. It is used for textiles and clothing made from 100% American Pima cotton and is continuously monitored by the breeders' organization. The fineness and longer staple length make Pima a premium cotton fiber. It is used to spin finer yarns from which fine and luxurious fabrics can be woven or knitted. With its extra-fine and long fibers, it ensures that the special cotton properties, such as skin-friendliness, pleasant softness, cooling effect, high moisture absorption, and breathability, are literally first-class in all end products. Supima is a licensed trademark.
sweatshirt
The term sweatshirt refers to a garment made of thicker jersey. Originally, the sweatshirt was invented for athletes. The lightweight jersey material is woven from a base thread and a special lining thread. The lining thread is brushed during production, giving sweatshirts a cozy feel. In addition to the special fabric, the cut of the sweatshirt also sets it apart from other long-sleeved tops. The sleeves, hem, and neckline are trimmed with a wide cuff, ensuring the shirt's perfect fit.
Swing pocket
Front pockets with a curved opening (swing pocket) have become established in jeans and casual trousers. The rounded seam runs from the waistband (belt loop) to the side seam. In jeans, the ends of the seam are usually reinforced with additional rivets. This serves to prevent the fabric from tearing at these points and dates back to a patent by Davis and Levis from 1873.
Swingers
A-shaped, bell-shaped, very short women's coat with narrow shoulders and a small, high-closing collar, usually made of light wool.
Sympatex®
A special finish that is primarily used in leisurewear. Sympatex® is used as a liner or laminate. Jackets with Sympatex finish are water-repellent, windproof, and breathable.
Tab collar
Collar shape. It is characterized by the narrow fabric bar that connects the two corners of a shirt's collar.
Tactel
Finest polyamide-based microfiber quality, originally used for sportswear but now also for "normal" fashion.
Tartan
Tartan patterns whose arrangements and colors are assigned to Scottish families (clans), e.g. Black Watch, Cameron, Mackenzie, Steward, Sutherland.
Tasmanian wool
Fine Merino wool from Tasmania. The Tasmanian Merino sheep lives in a land with optimal environmental conditions and a balanced climate. Pure air, clean waters, endless green pastures, and favorable weather conditions. Under these conditions, the wool fiber can grow longer and more evenly and—because Tasmania has virtually no pollution—is particularly pure.
Teflon® finish
Textiles treated with Teflon® have a fabric protection that makes the fiber water and dirt repellent, while the textile remains breathable.
TEFLON COATING
The term Teflon refers to a chemical substance called polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). This polymer belongs to the thermoplastics family and is used in many applications.
dividing seam
Also known as the English seam, this runs from the shoulder, across the chest, to the hem. This design eliminates the need for back, chest, and waist darts.
Tencel®
Tencel® from Lenzing is a lyocell fiber of botanical origin. It is obtained from the raw material wood. Due to the closed-loop production process, the production of this fiber is particularly environmentally friendly. Tencel® is more absorbent than cotton, cooler than linen, softer to the touch than silk, and hardly wrinkles. The fibers are often blended with cotton, viscose, polyester, and polyamide. They improve their properties and give them the shine and soft drape of pure silk. At the same time, Tencel® is more durable than other cellulose fibers and completely biodegradable.
thermal trousers
Pants with fleece lining, brushed inside or inner pants that are therefore warm in winter.
TKG
Textile Labeling Act: Requires retailers and manufacturers to only sell textiles with precise raw material information. Products that consist of at least 80% textile raw materials are subject to labeling.
Topper jacket
A hip-length, casually cut jacket. Characteristic features include the boxy cut, the collar (fashionable saddle shape), and the slim-cut, set-in sleeves.
TRANS DRY â„¢
This is a patented technology for reducing moisture absorption in cotton. It reduces the cling of clothing to the skin and ensures better moisture transfer from the skin to the surface of the material (TRANS DRY â„¢ is a trademark of Cotton Inc.).
Trench coat
Composed of the English words "trench" and "coat," the term "trench coat" refers to a mid-length coat originally designed as a raincoat/outdoor coat. Typical elements of the trench coat include a belt, shoulder yoke, epaulettes, a high-closing lapel collar, sleeve tabs, and closable pockets.
Triacetat
This synthetic fiber consists of a cellulose compound with acetic acid; it is called rayon. It is also referred to as an improved acetate fiber because it is more heat-resistant and can therefore be pleated easily.
Tricotine (Tricotine)
Tricotine is often made of wool or a washable wool blend. A special weaving technique creates a fabric with a clear diagonal look—usually fine yet very durable.
trumpet sleeves
Designed to enclose the upper arm, the sleeve widens out into a bell shape from the elbow area.
Tropical
A lightweight, porous worsted fabric with a cloth weave, similar in construction to fresco, but lighter and finer. It is primarily used for light summer clothing. A typical cool wool fabric.
Troyer
Sporty knitted sweater, typical feature is the stand-up collar with zipper or buttons.
Cloth
Matte wool fabric, characterized by a short stitch pile, heavily milled.
Cloth loden
A heavily felted loden, woven in a plain or twill weave. It is not brushed and therefore has a smooth surface. This loden is used for the production of trousers, skirts, suits, coats, and costumes.
tunic
An extended top for women that is worn over trousers and thus casually wraps around the hips. The tunic originated in Roman times; it was worn by both men and women from Roman antiquity to the Middle Ages, usually with a belt and bare legs.
drawstring
An invisibly running band that runs all the way around or is attached to specific sections. Designed to adjust the width of a garment. It can be found, for example, on a hood, the waistband of trousers, the hem (integrated into the hem turn-up), or at the waist of a top. A drawstring can also be found on pockets, fabric pouches, or on the cuffs or leg hems, allowing for flexible adjustment or closing the pocket or pouch.
tweed
Characterized by coarse and nubby yarns, this typically English fabric originates from the Hebrides and is still considered the epitome of "country style." The word is derived from the Scottish word "tweel" (equivalent to the English "twill") and describes a type of weave. Tweed is made from coarse wool yarn and is accordingly heavy. To make the fabric lighter and more affordable, it is often interwoven with silk, cotton, or polyester. Checked or herringbone patterns are typical. Tweed is primarily used to make sports jackets, sports suits, and coats.
Twill / twill weave
This weave is often used for trouser fabrics. It can be recognized by its twill weave: the warp thread always lies over at least two weft threads, which offsets the row of fabrics. The upper warp threads create a kind of diagonal stripe. This is a diagonal ridge in woven fabrics. Twill refers to a basic weave type for fabrics. Twill fabrics are durable cotton, satin, or linen fabrics. The thread count defines the thickness of the fabric, its surface, and its strength. A more common name for twill is twill, which is used for trousers, sturdy blouses, and workwear. Linen twill is used to create feminine, cool summer dresses, skirts, and blazers. Twill fabrics are available in many weaving and printing techniques. They can be strong and rough, but also very soft and loose. A unique feature is the diagonal burr. The most well-known example of twill is the blue and white denim fabric. If the burr runs from bottom left to top right, experts refer to it as a Z-burr twill. If the burr runs in the opposite direction, the fabric has an S-burr twill.
twist
Twill or plain weave worsted fabric. The use of multicolored threads creates the impression of a spotted surface.
Two-in-one
The term "two-in-one" comes from the English and means "two in one." These are garments that can be worn in two or more ways. For example, jackets often consist of a thinner outer jacket and a warm inner lining that can be removed with a zipper or buttons. There are also tops that are a blouse and shirt in one, or dresses that can be worn as skirts. Garments that have different patterns or colors inside and out and can be worn on both sides also fall into this category.
Two-Way Zip
Two-way zipper. Can be operated from the top or bottom.
Overlapped shoulder
The shoulder line exceeds the shoulder point, so the sleeve insert seam is located deep in the sleeve area.
Overcast seam
Used to clean up raw edges (see also: overlock seam).
watch case
Front trouser pockets in different variations, with a very small pocket opening that can only be opened with two fingers.
Ulster
A classic winter coat for men and women, featuring the signature Ulster cut, back strap, welt pockets, and wide, quilted edges. Crafted from voluminous wool fabrics and a straight-cut design. The name originates from the Irish county of Ulster, which was famous for its thick wool fabrics.
cuff
The cuff is folded outwards and closed with an elegant cufflink.
Uniform style
Inspired by uniforms of all kinds, the style is characterized by its taut lines and contrasting color trim.
Unconstructed
Certain men's clothing items that are made without any interior design appear somewhat "unfinished." For example, a jacket without lining or shoulder pads.
Used
The finished garments, especially jeanswear, are treated in an extra wash cycle to create a "worn-in" look.
V-neck
V-neck. As the name suggests, the neckline is V-shaped and runs toward the chest.
Father-killer collar
A high, stiff stand-up collar with folded front corners. This highly formal collar, originating in the 19th century, continues to be reinterpreted by fashion designers to this day.
Velourloden
Loden with a roughened appearance, where the fibers are not oriented in one direction. This type of loden has a soft and voluminous surface.
Velour
Wool fabric with a soft, roughened texture. A distinction is made between short, dense pile (pile velour) and flat pile (pile velour).
suede
Suede can come from any animal. The velvety to rough and even fluffy surface is achieved by sanding and grinding damaged hides and skins on the flesh side, or even split leather. Suede has a coarser grain than nubuck leather and is less dimensionally stable. A short sanding is called velvet suede, while a longer sanding is called writing suede.
Velvet
A smooth weft velvet fabric characterized by a short pile. Usually made of cotton. Also known as sports velvet.
Velveton
A cotton fabric with a surface texture reminiscent of velour. The short pile is created by roughening and sanding the right side of the fabric. Its characteristics include high strength and durability, as well as good washability. The fabric is manufactured using cotton yarns in the weft or cotton threads in the warp. Velveton's extremely good mechanical strength is achieved by the high weft thread count of up to 60 threads per centimeter. This imitation velvet with its sanded, roughened surface resembling suede is also known as duvetine, peau de peche, or peach skin.
Trim
Trimming refers to the decoration or embellishment of the edges of a garment. Fur and plush are particularly commonly used materials for trimming. The edges of the garment are either completely or partially bound. In the past, trimming served not only a decorative purpose but also to conceal the fact that the garment might not have been lined with fur. Today, it is mainly found on winter jackets and coats.
Concealed button placket
A concealed button placket is used on outerwear such as shirts and blouses, but also on jackets and coats. A placket lies over the actual placket with the buttonholes. When the buttons are closed, they are completely covered by the placket. Jeans with button closures also usually feature a concealed button placket—unless the buttons are intended to be visible as fashionable details. In many cases, the concealed button placket is used for aesthetic reasons. On jackets and coats, especially outdoor clothing and rainwear, it also has a practical use: It prevents moisture from penetrating through the buttonhole openings.
Offset pattern (knitting style)
Structural knit created by transferring stitches and moving the needle bed.
Welded seams
"Welding" refers to the joining of thermoplastic materials using heat. This prevents moisture from penetrating the seams.
Collapse
Two pieces of fabric are joined by facing. The seam is located between them when finished.
Vichy check
A uniform, high-contrast, checked cotton fabric, usually two-tone, one of which is usually white. The fabric is created on the loom by alternating equally wide stripes in the warp and weft. A popular pattern for blouses and shirts.
Vintage look
Original models from the 50s to 70s are particularly good for creating this look. However, garments that are simply made or treated as if they came from this era can also be assigned this look. It's important to note: Vintage outfits should appear worn, but under no circumstances should they give the impression of being worn.
viscose
Viscose is the best-known cellulose-based chemical fiber, which is obtained from natural raw materials. The raw materials for viscose are pine and beech wood, as well as bamboo, which are stripped of bark and shredded into small pieces. In a complex process, resins and foreign matter are boiled out, allowing the resulting cellulose to be pressed into pulp sheets. These pulp sheets are then liquefied into a honey-like solution and pressed through fine spinning glands into the spinning bath. The cellulose solidifies in the spinning bath into filaments, which can be gathered into filament yarn and spun. Unlike natural fibers, viscose cannot be spun without complex chemical conversion processes. Viscose gives fabrics a soft feel and a smooth drape. The fiber is chemically produced and is also known as artificial silk or rayon. Viscose is excellently dyeable and boasts brilliant colors. It can have either a matte finish or a silky sheen. Viscose is also ideal as a lining material.
fleece
Raw sheep's wool. This is divided into different quality batches. A high number indicates a reduced quality of the batch.
nonwoven fabric
A textile fabric consisting of loose fibers. To ensure their cohesion and thus make them manageable, the fabric is consolidated. This is used as a fixation interlining.
Voile
The term comes from French and means "veil." A plain weave fabric, usually made of cotton, but also of worsted wool (wool voile). The fabric is translucent and has a grainy feel. This is achieved through the use of tightly twisted yarns.
valance
A flounce is a sewn-on trim on a textile product. It differs from a ruffle in that it is cut in a circular shape. This makes the fabric drape softer and more pleasing. A flounce is usually sewn on smoothly and not gathered like a ruffle.
Wax impregnation
Wax impregnation involves coating textile surfaces with paraffin wax. The smooth surface makes the coated textiles dirt- and water-repellent.
Waffle pique
Cotton fabric with a waffle-like appearance, created by squarely arranged thread floats.
Welsh loden
This type of loden is also called diagonal loden because the warp has a different color than the weft, making the twill weave very visible.
walk
Felt fabrics are naturally temperature and moisture regulating, antibacterial, water and wind repellent, durable and dirt-resistant.
Walking
Through mechanical, thermal, or chemical treatment of a wool fabric, its fibers are pushed closer together, resulting in felting. Fulled fabric is denser, warmer, and more durable due to increased tensile and abrasion resistance. The degree of felting results in a reduction in length and width of up to 40%.
fulled loden
A knitted, non-woven loden. Knitted loden is less expensive than woven loden and, thanks to its flexible mesh structure, adapts better to the curves of the body. It has a more uneven surface appearance and is less durable than fulled loden.
Wash
Many wool and cotton yarns are washed after knitting to achieve a softer feel and a more voluminous knit.
Loden
A modern version of loden with a fulled surface that is not roughened or pressed. It has a sturdy, soft surface.
waterfall collar
A waterfall collar is characterized by loosely gathered fabric that falls in soft waves like cascades, the steps of a waterfall—hence the name. It's visually striking and an interesting alternative to other collar styles. It goes well with classic blouses and sweaters, as well as casual shirts and sexy evening dresses.
water column
The waterproofness of membranes or fabrics is indicated by the so-called water column (in mm) and is determined by placing a column filled with water on the material. Fabrics are considered waterproof if they have a water column greater than 1300 mm (i.e., the fabric can withstand the water pressure of a 1.3-meter-high column). Generally, a water column of 1500 mm is considered sufficient; for areas subject to high wear, such as the shoulder area, the values should be 2000 mm. The water column decreases with the number of washes or dry cleaning cycles.
wadding
Padding is an interlayer placed between the outer fabric and the lining. This serves either to maintain the shape or as an additional layer of heat insulation.
Faux fur
Woven fur is a synthetic fiber imitation of natural fur. Unlike velvet and plush, woven fur has a deep pile. Also known as faux fur, woven fur consists of two different yarns. A tightly twisted cotton yarn serves as the base yarn. The pile is made of fine polyacrylic. When the two materials are woven together, the pile threads are bonded to the base yarn and brought to the visible surface. Additionally, elastic polyurethane adhesive is applied to the underside to prevent shedding.
vest
A sleeveless garment. The classically designed vest is single- or double-breasted and cut to end just below the waist. The hem and neckline are pointed, and the armholes are deep.
Weather spot / Lodenkotze
The weather patch, also called Lodenkotze, offers the hunter protection in adverse weather conditions without restricting freedom of movement. The Kotze (derived from the Old High German term "chozzo" or "chozza") is a sleeveless, poncho-like cloak made of coarse wool or loden. The cut is either rectangular or round and traditionally has only a head hole and a chest slit. More modern forms have a full-length button placket and slash pockets. The Kotze originates from the Roman paenula. Made by the Kotzenmacher (a German shawl maker), it was worn in the Alpine countries as workwear and weather protection, and from the second half of the 19th century onward, it was also used as hunting and hiking clothing. It is ideal for hunters, as it can be worn over a backpack and hunting weapon. The term was transferred from the coarse fabric to the garments made from it.
wrap blouse/shirt
A wrap blouse (cache-coeur blouse) or wrap shirt is not closed with buttons, but rather has two panels of fabric at the front that are wrapped crosswise around the waist and knotted. The wrapping technique creates a more or less deep V-neck.
Viennese seam
A seam originating from the armhole on both front sides of suit jackets, dresses, and blazers. The rounded line runs to the waist or hem. It eliminates the need for bust darts and creates a figure-hugging silhouette.
Suede
Suede is a leather obtained from deer, elk, roe deer, antelope, or chamois hides. This dull, velvety leather is water-permeable and not very strong. It is used as shoe upper leather and as clothing leather for high-quality leather jackets and trousers.
wild silk
Wild silk (tussah silk) comes from wild silkworms of Indian or Chinese origin. In the wild, the caterpillar produces only one cocoon harvest; these days, up to six generations can be achieved annually. Because the cocoons are bitten through when the butterflies hatch, this silk is not endless. It is therefore spun using two techniques and exhibits thickenings. The color of the silk varies greatly and depends on the caterpillar's diet. Tussah silk is available in light green, light gray, dark gray, yellow-brown, dark brown, and almost black. The more tannin-rich food the caterpillar consumes, the darker the silk becomes.
windbreaker
Windbreakers are jackets that combine absolute, permanent windproofness with excellent breathability. They protect against wind chill while allowing the body to breathe freely.
Windproofness
Windproof clothing prevents the exchange between the warm, insulating layer of air that forms within the clothing when you move and the cooler ambient air, thus protecting the body from chilling due to cold wind. Also important is protection against the so-called wind chill effect: the difference between the measured and perceived air temperature depending on the wind speed, which can sometimes be very large.
Windstopper
Laminates that are windproof but not waterproof and offer good moisture transport to the outside.
Winter cotton
Winter cotton fabrics, often with a sanded or brushed surface.
Effective
A common generic term for all shirt and sweatshirt items. Knitted fabrics that are not made by knitting one stitch at a time, but in which all stitches in a row are knitted simultaneously with a horizontally running thread.
Wool
Wool is one of the oldest spinning fibers in the world. Wool felts existed even before spinning wheels and looms existed. Wool is the name given to animal hair that is spun into threads to create a fabric. Wool and other fine animal hair consist primarily of protein substances (keratin). These, along with the special fiber structure, determine the properties of the wool. Sheep's wool is primarily used, but goat, camel, and Angora rabbit hair are also used. This type of textile production has been known in Europe for over 5,000 years. Wool fabric has natural thermoregulation properties because of its high air content, which provides good insulation and stores the body's own heat. Although the surface of wool fabric is water-repellent, it can absorb a lot of moisture without feeling wet and release it back into the environment. Due to its chemical properties, wool neutralizes perspiration odors. Wool fabrics range in size from heavy felt to very fine, lightweight fabrics. Due to the scale structure of the hair surface, wool is prone to pilling.
Yucca fiber
Substitute for jute fibers. Leaf fiber from the lily plant Yucca filamentosa.
Cellulose (see also: Cellulose)
The most important basic building blocks of cellulosic chemical fibers, examples of cellulose fibers are: viscose, modal, lyocell, cupro, acetate, triacetate.
Z-ridge twill
Twill weave, characterized by the diagonals running from bottom right to top left. This arrangement suggests an association with the letter Z.
zigzag twill
Derivative of the twill weave. It is characterized by diagonal or longitudinal zigzag lines. This fabric is used for costumes, skirts, and coats. The original weave is the twill weave, with zigzag lines consisting of combined Z- and S-shaped ridges that converge to a point.
Zip off
"Zip-off" means that the length of a pair of trousers can be changed by detaching leg warmers, which are connected to the upper part of the trousers by zippers. Depending on the variant, two lengths can be adjusted—long trousers and shorts—or an additional third length can be adjusted as three-quarter length trousers ending below the knee.
Zipper
The zipper, known in German as a zip fastener, serves as a closure for various items of clothing, shoes, and bags. It has so-called staples on two sides that hook into each other or release when the slider is moved in either direction. The material used is metal or plastic.
cable pattern
Special offset pattern in which the stitches are crossed to create a braid.
Two-ply
A complete thread made up of several parallel individual threads with a certain stretch.
double-breasted
One, two, three, or more pairs of buttons arranged in two parallel rows. Found on suits, blazers, suits, or coats.
Two-way zipper
A two-way zipper is a zipper with two sliders. It is used wherever it makes sense to be able to open or close a zipper in both directions.
Two-way bag
Bag with two openings, each with a separate pocket pouch. Use: sporty outdoor clothing and vests.
thread
Twine is created by twisting at least two yarns together to form a single thread. With plain twines, the strength and volume of the thread are increased and its evenness is optimized. Good evenness of the twines improves the appearance of the fabric. Fancy twines get their distinctive character from twisting together mostly dissimilar materials. Depending on the number of individual yarns, a distinction is made between 2-, 3-, 4-, and 24-ply twines.